Food & Drink

Saddle up for new Saturday breakfasts

Chicken-fried steak: It’s now for breakfast Saturdays at chef Grady Spears’ Horseshoe Hill Cafe.
Chicken-fried steak: It’s now for breakfast Saturdays at chef Grady Spears’ Horseshoe Hill Cafe.

Two of Fort Worth’s original cowboy chefs are trying their hand at Saturday breakfast.

Grady SpearsHorseshoe Hill Cafe and Michael Thomson’s Michaels Cuisine are both serving Saturday chicken-fried-steak-and-eggs breakfasts, ready for Stockyards and Stock Show crowds or anyone up and kicking on Saturdays.

Until recently, “Saturday brunch” was scarce in Fort Worth.

Brunch-heavy bar-and-grills such as Max’s Wine Dive and Social House made it popular, along with Café Modern.

Now, even more restaurants are promoting for a Saturday-morning crowd.

Horseshoe Hill will launch breakfast at 8 a.m., serving “sausage-and-egg pie,” steak and eggs, chicken-fried steaks with eggs or enchiladas and sandwiches or sliders, plus butterscotch rolls.

To launch breakfast, Horseshoe Hill had to add an item: coffee.

“We just had a coffee pot installed,” new Horseshoe Hill investor Chuck Bush said this week, laughing.

Bush, founder of the Fuzzy’s Taco Shop chain, bought a Horseshoe Hill stake from Spears’ original partner, Burt Shield.

“I’m just trying to figure out how to conquer the chicken-fried steak world instead of the taco world,” Bush said. He hinted at expansion elsewhere in Texas, but said nothing’s firm yet.

Horseshoe Hill opened in 2015 and immediately won Texas Monthly’s praise for Spears’ take on chicken-fried steaks served five ways.

The dinner menu (Wednesdays through Saturdays only) has grown to include a tenderloin, a rib-eye, roasted chicken and Spears’ familiar roasted corn, “squash pie” and green chile cheese grits.

It’s open for lunch and dinner Wednesdays through Fridays, all day from 8 a.m. Saturdays at 204 W. Exchange Ave., 817-882-6405;

Pozole and more

Michaels Cuisine is not a cowboy restaurant, but it’s full of cowboys this time of year.

For 25 years, it’s been the nearest full-service restaurant to the Stock Show, serving lunch and dinner daily except Sunday in the Chicotsky’s Center shops on West Seventh Street, two blocks north of the Kimbell Art Museum’s Renzo Piano Pavilion.

Thomson’s menu covers a wide range from grilled dishes with his “roc doc” seasonings to burgers and salads.

On Saturdays, Michaels serves omelets, eggs Benedict, a hearty pozole and his 25-year favorite “mixteco” casserole, like King Ranch chicken.

There’s also lemon-ricotta silver-dollar pancakes and ancho-bourbon-pecan sticky buns.

The Saturday menu also includes the regular burgers, pizzas and salads.

Don’t get in a rush: Michaels still opens at 11 a.m., even Saturdays. It’s at 3413 W. Seventh St., 817-877-3413,

End of the Zodiac

This is farewell week for the old Zodiac at the current Neiman Marcus store in Ridgmar Mall.

The new NM Cafe is taking shape inside a new Neiman’s in the Shops at Clearfork center on the Chisholm Trail Parkway. That store is due to open in mid-February.

The current Zodiac will be open for lunch daily except Sunday through Jan. 28, closing after lunch that day; 2100 Green Oaks Road, 817-989-4650,

Bud Kennedy: 817-390-7538,, @EatsBeat. His column appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in