Shake Shack vs. In-N-Out vs. Whataburger: A coast-to-coast burger brawl

Burgers are big business in America.

In 2014, the most recent year for which statistics were available, a whopping 9 billion burgers were served at restaurant and food service outlets across the United States, according to research firm NPD. (Those kind of numbers probably put an even bigger grin on Ronald McDonald’s face.)

Given those eye-popping figures, it’s no wonder the topic of burgers inspires such passionate discussion. Who makes the best burger most consistently, what sides are best with a burger, which burger beats out every other burger on Earth — the arguments a person can have about the quality and quantity of burgers are endless, really.

But what about introducing geography into that discussion?

We were struck by a Business Insider article published last year, pitting California’s beloved In-N-Out against the Lone Star State’s beloved Whataburger. (Spoiler: In-N-Out trumped the Texas favorite, although author Sarah Jacobs was a fan of Whataburger’s fries.)

When New York’s Shake Shack, itself the subject of a rabid following, opened its first North Texas location over Labor Day weekend in Dallas, we thought: Hey, why not pit one coast against another, and see how both coasts compete with Whataburger?

No less a culinary authority than Anthony Bourdain recently vouched for both coastal chains, telling the San Francisco Chronicle: “If I’m on the East Coast I like Shake Shack, if I’m on the West Coast I like In-N-Out.”

So, having skipped breakfast and done some light stretching, it was off to sample the same meal at all three restaurants back to back to (urp) back. Tuck in your napkins, and read on to see how this East Coast/West Coast/Texas beef unfolded.

Shake Shack

What it is: A fast-casual burger restaurant, owned by Union Square Hospitality Group’s Danny Meyer, that has its roots in New York City’s cozy Madison Square Park, a stone’s throw from the Flatiron Building. Modeled after the “roadside” burger stands of the 1950s, Shake Shack offers fresh-made burgers, hot dogs and sandwiches, as well as frozen treats, beer and wine. The Dallas location, situated just in front of the Crescent in Uptown, evokes the Madison Square Park location with its layout — chairs and tables nestled under trees in an urban setting — even as it also echoes Shake Shack’s non-park locations with its indoor seating.

Where it’s from: As the Shake Shack website notes, the business actually began as a hot-dog cart, before a permanent “shack” was opened in 2004 inside Madison Square Park. From that first location more than a decade ago, Shake Shack has rapidly expanded across the country and around the world, with more than 60 locations open everywhere from California to Minnesota to Russia to South Korea. The Dallas location is the first in North Texas and third in the state so far. (The others are in Austin.)

Why people love it: Above all else, it’s the taste of Shake Shack’s food, which in keeping with current dining trends, puts an emphasis on fresh (and freshly prepared) ingredients, from toppings to beef to buns. (Shake Shack also smoothly integrates itself in surrounding communities: The newly opened Dallas location has a burger on its menu that utilizes smoked sausage from Pecan Lodge.) Business Insider also compiled a worthwhile list of reasons why folks happily spend time waiting in Shake Shack’s often-lengthy lines.

What we ordered: We kept it simple throughout this three-way face-off, ordering the same items at each restaurant. For Shake Shack, that was the Shackburger ($5.29 for a single), topped with lettuce, tomato and the eatery’s proprietary ShackSauce. We also ordered a side of fries ($2.99) and a chocolate shake ($5.29). Shake Shack is the model of efficiency, and its long lines — if you arrive much after 11:30 a.m., be prepared to wait a while — move quickly. After you pay, you get a pager that will buzz when your order is ready. No need to get your drinks — Shake Shack serves everything to you on a steel tray when your order is ready.

What we thought: For a split second, it was possible to fool the mind into thinking the meal really was taking place in New York City, particularly on a recent, gorgeous fall afternoon, a light breeze carrying the sounds of traffic and conversation. The Shackburger was terrific — not too much ShackSauce overwhelming everything, and the toppings were crisp and fresh. The 100 percent Angus beef patty itself packed a nice flavor, and the potato bun held together from first bite to last. The crinkle-cut fries (Shake Shack endured a bit of backlash when it shifted from crinkle-cut to fresh-cut in 2013, and has since changed back) were warm and lightly salted, and a nice break from the usual burger-joint fries.

The shake, however, took things to another level.. If you’re going to name your restaurant after an item on the menu, said item had best be phenomenal, and on that count, Shake Shack scores. The frozen-custard chocolate shake was smooth, creamy and habit-forming — a rich treat that easily stands among the best we’ve ever tasted, here or anywhere else. There are several flavors offered, along with mix-ins, but those who crave a superb shake would do well to keep it traditional.

Shake Shack, 2500 N. Pearl St., Dallas. 214-983-1022; shakeshack.com.

In-N-Out Burger

What it is: A California fast-food institution, founded by Harry Snyder and opened in 1948. In-N-Out Burger is best known for its made-to-order burgers, as well as its “secret” menu, which features a dizzying number of ways to customize its hamburgers and cheeseburgers. The brightly lit and pleasantly retro chain, which now numbers more than 300 stores across the western United States, has steadily expanded over the decades, and opened its first Texas restaurants five years ago, including several in North Texas.

Where it’s from: Founded in Los Angeles, In-N-Out Burger embraced America’s burgeoning car culture in the late 1940s and 1950s, putting a premium on its drive-thru service — the company bills itself as “California’s first drive-thru hamburger stand” — as well as its unique “animal-style” hamburger preparations. The love of the 1950s carries over to the 21st century, as evidenced by the staff’s throwback uniforms and the faintly kitschy neon lighting inside every In-N-Out store.

Why people love it: In-N-Out inspires some fierce devotion, and like Shake Shack, had people lining up well before doors officially opened in DFW to make sure they were among the first in North Texas to taste the coastal burger’s arrival in the Lone Star State. The labyrinthine “secret” menu and its occasionally mystifying phrases — “animal-style,” “Flying Dutchman” and so on — is merely one reason In-N-Out fanatics are so loyal to the brand, as BuzzFeed determined in 2014. (Our favorite Buzzfeed theory: “The burgers … are handmade by angels.”)

What we ordered: As with Shake Shack, we kept it simple at In-N-Out, with one extra twist to make sure the burgers were similar. We ordered an “animal-style” cheeseburger ($2.45), which features In-N-Out’s secret, Thousand Island-ish sauce, as well as a “mustard grilled” beef patty, grilled onions, pickles, lettuce and tomato. We also ordered a side of fries ($1.65), cooked well done, and a chocolate shake ($2.20). It should be noted that, of all the burger restaurants visited for this face-off, In-N-Out was far and away the most economical, with the whole meal totaling less than $10. The service at In-N-Out is fast and friendly, with cashiers unfazed by just about any loopy customization request you could make.

What we thought: In-N-Out’s cheeseburger remains very satisfying, five years after the new-restaurant shine has worn off here in Texas. It’s easy to understand why these burgers induce such a frenzy among the faithful — the fresh ingredients all work together, although on this trip, the secret sauce was a little overpowering, drowning out almost everything but the 100 percent American beef patty. While it was served hot, this particular “animal-style” cheeseburger just lacked a little bit of oomph. The fries were fine — although In-N-Out fries have their devotees, they have always struck us as being merely serviceable — and the chocolate shake was, as always, delectable, but a distant second to Shake Shack’s superb frozen concoction.

Multiple locations; tasting took place at 7940 N. Central Expressway, Dallas. 800-786-1000; in-n-out.com.

Whataburger

What it is: A Texas landmark, founded by Harmon Dobson in 1950. Whataburger is easily identifiable with its distinctive buildings, decked out in eye-searing orange roofs and highly visible from the state’s highways and byways. Those who live here swear by the 24-hours-a-day, seven-days-a-week menu — especially those who prefer to dine after midnight or, even more often, after last call — and the chain, which is prevalent throughout the southern United States with some 790 locations, has proved to be quite adept at social media as well.

Where it’s from: The original Whataburger opened in Corpus Christi, and the chain is now headquartered in San Antonio. According to Whataburger’s website, Dobson’s initial goals were “to serve a burger so big that it took two hands to hold, and so good that after a single bite customers couldn’t help but exclaim, ‘What a burger!’ ” Having opened Whataburger just as American car culture was taking off — not unlike In-N-Out — Dobson was also keen to attract drivers, hence the vivid orange-and-white A-frame design of the earliest restaurants.

Why people love it: Allow us to quote the venerable Bon Appetit, which singled out Whataburger for praise earlier this year: “Despite this bounty of excellent burgers in Texas, the call of Whataburger is still strong. Why is this? Well, let’s start with the burger itself. It’s a solid sandwich and each satisfying bite strikes all the right notes — salty, peppery, juicy, crunchy, and tangy.” (And although it has no bearing on this particular challenge, it’s also worth noting that Whataburger begins serving breakfast at 11 p.m., which also endears it to those with late-night hunger pangs.)

What we ordered: The Whataburger order consisted of a cheeseburger, topped with lettuce, tomato, onion, pickles and mustard, and french fries (the combo meal, which included a large drink, was $7.83), as well as a chocolate shake ($2.54). After you place your order here, you’re given your order number and wait for the server to bring you your meal, as well as a condiment tray (shades of carhop service). Despite the burgers being made to order, the wait is not terribly long — or at least it wasn’t during our visit. (The drive-thru, however, is another story: We’ve all got stories about being trapped in there for what seems like an eternity compared with other fast-food chains.)

What we thought: Ordinarily, we add some jalapeños to our Whataburger cheeseburger — we did not this time around, in the interest of a fair fight — as the burger by itself can be, well, a bit bland. Unfortunately, that was definitely the case on our most recent visit. The meat didn’t pack any particular punch, and the rest of the toppings didn’t distinguish themselves much either. The shake was abysmal — faintly chalky-tasting and sickeningly sweet — but the fries were cooked well, nicely salted and piping hot, the lone bright spot in an otherwise disappointing meal.

Multiple locations; tasting took place at 6061 Greenville Ave., Dallas. 214-265-9191; whataburger.com.

Who won?

At the risk of having to turn in our Texan card, this battle was won by the newcomer, Shake Shack. Its burger was perfectly prepared and wonderfully balanced, marrying deep, beefy flavor with creamy melted cheese and a sturdy, tasty bun. In-N-Out was close behind, and Whataburger’s off day simply missed the mark.

However, when it came to fries, Whataburger actually trumped the competition, and Shake Shack’s glorious chocolate frozen custard still haunts our dreams days after our last sip.

So, perhaps the perfect American burger meal involves a little bit of New York attitude and a dose of Lone Star pride: Shake Shack’s burger and shake, with a quick swing through Whataburger for fries.

This story was originally published October 5, 2016 at 4:07 PM with the headline "Shake Shack vs. In-N-Out vs. Whataburger: A coast-to-coast burger brawl."