Let’s make a fresh list of things we need to accomplish as we move into spring

By now you’re seeing some wonderful changes in the lawn, landscape and gardens around you.

These transformations brought on by a few days of warm weather are encouraging.

Things are going to be alright, but let’s make a fresh list of things we need to accomplish now as we move into “fast forward” mode of the springtime ahead.

• Scalp your lawn if you wish to. This is purely aesthetic, but it will get rid of the stubble the ice, snow and cold left behind. It will also remove most of the weeds, and it will allow the sun to warm the soil. That, in turn, will let the grass start greening just a little bit sooner. Things just look better when they’re green.
• Apply pre-emergent weedkiller to prevent weeds you cannot see. We’re talking about crabgrass and grassburs. Your products of choice include Dimension, Halts and Balan (all granules), among others, and the time to apply them would be now through next weekend, with a repeat application in the first two weeks of June. That will prevent germination of those two annual warm-season grasses. Don’t be confused into thinking that what you see out there now is crabgrass. It’s not. It’s a cool-season grass, most likely either annual bluegrass or rescuegrass, and the pre-emergent timing to prevent those would be one week either side of September 1.

It should be noted that if there is a chance that you have lost a part of your St. Augustine lawn to the cold, you would not want to apply pre-emergent granules to that area if you’ll be planting new sod. The herbicide would impede growth of roots.

• Non-grassy (“broadleafed”) weeds such as dandelions, clover, dichondra and chickweed can be eliminated by spraying with a broadleafed weedkiller containing 2,4-D. Unfortunately, there is no comparable post-emergent control for annual bluegrass, rescuegrass and ryegrass. All you can do is wait them out and let them die naturally in six or eight weeks as the weather warms.
• Begin to prune out dead wood from shrubs and vines that were hurt by the freeze. By now you should be seeing new buds and shoots developing. If the new growth doesn’t extend clear out to the ends of the shoots, trim off the dead wood and reshape your plants as necessary. Some plants may need to be cut clear back to the ground and allowed to regrow. Oleanders come to mind first. Other plants may have been killed entirely, and that list seems to be including many pittosporums, gardenias and fatsias, among others. If a plant’s stem has turned to mush clear to the ground, it’s probably gone.
• If you’re going to be redoing any of your landscaping beds this spring, whether to replace plants that were lost in the cold, or just because you’ve decided it is time, do your planning and shopping early.

There’s a good chance nursery stock will be in short supply. Wise gardeners will know what they need, and they’ll get their buying done early. Shipments come in daily, but Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays are often the best days to shop. Crowds won’t be as big as they will on the weekends and you’re more likely to be able to get some time with a Texas certified nursery professional at the independent retail garden center near you. Early morning times are usually less crowded as well.

• Cool-season leafy and root vegetables such as leaf lettuce, carrots, radishes, chard and beets can still be planted. We in the Metroplex are still one week away from the average date of our last killing freeze. Planting warm-season vegetables such as beans, tomatoes, squash, cucumbers, peppers and corn any sooner than that comes at more than a 50-percent risk of losing your crop. If you have a way of protecting the plants, and especially for crops you’ll be planting from seed, you may consider the risk worth taking, but at least you’re now warned.
• Similarly, you can still plant cool-season annual flowers such as petunias, sweet alyssum and even larkspurs. Soils are still too cool, however, for your hot-weather color. Wait a couple of weeks to plant coleus, begonias, marigolds and zinnias into the ground (pots are fine), and four to six weeks for planting sub-tropical types like trailing lantanas, moss rose, pentas, angelonias, fanflowers, caladiums and periwinkles.
• Consider container color. As hinted, it’s a great way to add sparkle to your gardens before it’s warm enough to start planting in beds. If it turns cold, you can always wheel those plants indoors. Container color is quicker and easier, and it lets you showcase the plants when they’re at their prime and then replace them with a new round of blooms when it’s needed.
• If there’s any chance you’re going to need sprinkler repairs, you might want to get your name on the list. Most systems need touch-ups and tune-ups each spring just for routine things. One can only imagine what might need to be done this year in particular. Irrigation contractors have been working overtime after the cold. Be sure you find a good one, and get them scheduled to come.

You can hear Neil Sperry on KLIF 570AM on Saturday afternoons 1-3 pm and on WBAP 820AM Sunday mornings 8-10 am. Join him at www.neilsperry.com and follow him on Facebook.