Review: Texas’ iconic Shiner beer is branching out to gin, vodka. How do they taste?
Does the world, or even Texas, really need another brand of vodka or gin? To look at the liquor store shelves, you’d think: surely not. But when it comes from the people behind Texas’ iconic Shiner beers, make room for one more.
The century-old beermaker in south Texas is now the K. Spoetzl Brewery & Distillery, where Shiner’s three new spirits have been available for a while. As of April 1, they are for sale in the first test market, Dallas-Fort Worth.
The line includes a vodka, a gin and an unaged whiskey, often referred to as “white dog” or “moonshine.” Whiskey nerds will immediately recognize what that last one means: Yes, Shiner will soon be selling its own bourbon.
During an unveiling of the spirits last week in Fort Worth, Shiner reps stressed that as with beer, the goal is to be true to the company’s roots. The liquor is made with the same malted barley and water as Shiner beers.
Texas is “the heart and soul of Shiner — everything we do is Texas,” said Tom Fiorenzi, director of brewery and distillery operations.
The spirits were showcased at Waters Restaurant in downtown Fort Worth, where chef Jon Bonnell and his staff highlighted them in cocktails and prepared a menu designed to complement each.
The gin is a standout product. It has a traditional London dry profile (think Tanqueray or Beefeater) but a distinctive finish. I suspect it will immediately be a go-to for martinis.
Clinton Shaw, a district sales manager for Shiner based in Fort Worth, described the gin as modeled after a London Dry but “moved into the new world.” He said that head distiller Jessica Michalec, who developed the product, started with 22 botanicals as potential flavors, but finally pared the list to eight. Juniper is of course prominent, but it soon gives way to citrus. The gin has a clean but noticeable mouthfeel, which Shaw credited to pecans, a nice Texas touch.
The vodka surprised. Many start-up distillers, eager to get a product on the shelf to sell while whiskeys age, aim to make a near-tasteless vodka. I find most vodka to be pretty useless for that reason. But Shiner’s version has character and distinctive flavor. It brings a maltiness that is reminiscent of the company’s beer but doesn’t overpower in a cocktail.
Shaw confirmed that was intentional. The first run of the vodka occurs in a copper pot still, the kind used to make most traditional Irish and Scotch whiskies. It imparts more initial flavor than a column still, by which most vodkas are produced (and which Shiner uses to purify its product, too).
Shiner vodka would make an interesting sipper or even a standout in a vodka soda, if that’s as much cocktail creativity as you prefer.
And then there’s the “shine.” In general, most of the flavor you get from whiskey comes from its time aging in an oak barrel. So, most unaged whiskey simply tastes like someone squeezed corn until juice came out. Shiner’s is better, with a bready, earthy taste and a finish that’s less harsh than one expects from such a product.
Shaw said the shine, like the other spirits, is made with “old-world techniques and craft technology at the same time.”
Bonnell joked that he didn’t have much experience working with shine, so he decided not to overthink it and served up a Shine and Coke. Paired with a pepper crusted beef tenderloin, it worked.
Fiorenzi said that Shiner purchased its still about five years ago. The operation was intentional but with a craft mentality: The first batch of gin was produced with juniper from his own yard, he said.
Shiner Craft Gin is 43% alcohol by-volume, or 86 proof. It sells for a suggested price of $25.99. Shiner Craft Vodka is 80 proof (40% ABV), like most vodkas for sale, and retails at $19.99. Shiner Shine is 90 proof (45% ABV), with a suggested price of $25.99. All should be widely available in DFW liquor stores and, if the success of Shiner beer is any indication, around the state and nationally before long.
The bottom line: The vodka won’t be for everyone, but it’s a bold effort worth sampling. The shine is fun, although not something a lot of people will probably get into. It has potential for home bartenders to try making their own flavor infusions. The gin is the big star, a solid, distinctive product at a good price. It’ll be going right into my Martini rotation.
The biggest question, of course, is when will the bourbon be ready?
Texas distillers like to brag that the state’s extreme temperatures help spirits age faster. Some use that as an excuse to sell a young whiskey that, frankly, tastes like it’s not ready for prime time despite a premium price.
Count on Shiner to avoid that mistake. Company officials said it would be at least another year before the bourbon is on sale.
This story was originally published April 4, 2024 at 1:49 PM.
