Tablet Life & Arts

Eats Beat: Find more than breads and pies at Country Store Bakery near Grandview

Before the holidays, find your way to the Country Store Bakery & Deli south of Alvarado.

The Miller family’s faith-driven pie company has expanded to a full-scale country grocery and sandwich shop, with 20 meats, 20 cheeses and eight breads, plus a deli case filled with cakes and fried pies.

If you miss stopping at old highway favorites like the now-gone Turkey Shop, take Exit 21 and stay on the access road toward County Road 106. The Country Store serves build-your-own lunch sandwiches with six styles of ham, four flavors of turkey and three bolognas on a choice of buns, breads or tortillas.

Originally, the Grandview bakery was known for pies, and the pie shelf offers 12 flavors when fully stocked — although it sells out quickly. The fried pies come in 10 flavors, with pecan the best-known. The store side offers free-range eggs, no-MSG mixes, cereals, grains, spices, flours, relishes and 20 flavors of jams and jellies.

Note: It isn’t easy to find. It’s on the west access road of Interstate 35W, just north of County Road 106, so it takes a bit of faith to stay the course until you see it.

Hours are 7:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Tuesdays through Fridays, and it closes at 4 on Saturdays. The official address is 10760 S. Interstate 35W; 817-866-4312.

New grub at River Oaks

The River Oaks Cafe has lasted long enough to update its menu, and that’s a good start.

A family of servers left one of Fort Worth’s top plate-lunch cafes to take over the old-fashioned, small-town-style Dusty’s Diner on Texas 183, and this is River Oaks’ first all-new menu.

River Oaks Cafe made a name for itself right away with its hand-packed burgers, and the new menu still leads with “Buck’s Original” half-pound burger with 12 seasonings. Choices also include a “hell-apeno-plus” burger with peppers, spices and pepper Jack cheese, a grilled-pineapple burger or the familiar green chile burger.

Also known for lunch specials such as chicken and dumplings, River Oaks has seafood offerings in the form of a salmon burger, grilled tilapia or grilled or fried catfish.

Billing itself as the “newest old cafe in River Oaks,” the restaurant is open daily until 3 p.m. and serves breakfast and lunch only; 4837 River Oaks Blvd. (Texas 183) near Long Avenue, 817-625-7337.

A new look at — Griff’s?!

Nearby, the River Oaks location of iconic Griff’s Hamburgers, one of the chain’s most familiar, has a new look.

Griff’s was one of the first local fast-food chains. Its River Oaks store was rebuilt 20 years ago from the original 1960s look, but the new update gives it a fresher design and larger signage. Sadly, the large Griffy the Clown of old is no longer around, but Griff’s remains popular at 4525 River Oaks Blvd.; 817-626-2007.

Righteous and ready

Chef Lanny Lancarte now says his Righteous Foods will open next week, tentatively Tuesday, according to’s Robert Philpot.

Although Lancarte promises breakfast and lunch foods that are “good for the soul,” this isn’t some granola cafe: He’ll also serve cocktails and desserts, and who can pass up a margarita and a poached pear with rosemary-black pepper ice cream?

Righteous Foods will open from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily at 3405 W. Seventh St.; 817-850-9996,