Two years ago, I crowned Swiss Pastry Shop with the best new burger in DFW title for a DFW.com story, a story from which I’m still trying to recover — I have about 15 pounds to go.
Swiss chef/owner Hans Peter Muller may not have been ahead of the curve on the gourmet-burger trend, but Muller has perfected it, using quality beef, fresh, cool ingredients and housemade buns. That’s the funny thing about Swiss — it’s a bakery, yes, but few burgers in Fort Worth can best its creations.
I’ve kept close tabs on Swiss’ burger menu, trying out new weekly specials as they grow from a thought in Muller’s head to the specials board. One in particular was so popular, it jumped to the permanent menu. Give a warm welcome to The Killer Bee.
The burger: Swiss’ dedicated burger followers loved The Killer Bee ($13.60) so much, Muller all but had no choice but to add it to the regular menu. It’s sort of like the Hodor of burgers, a sweet yet powerful giant that illustrates Muller’s knack for seamlessly blending complex flavors.
The patty: Like all of Swiss’ burgers, this one is composed of a half-pound Akaushi patty, big and thick and rich. I ordered mine medium, and while it could have used a few more patches of pink, it was thoroughly juicy. Good seasoning, too — sea salt and black pepper, applied generously.
The bun: Often my favorite part of a Swiss burger is the excellent brioche buns, baked on-site. Sprinkled with sesame seeds, these were perfect specimens, light on their feet but with a springy, firm texture that kept their components in place.
The toppings: The main-attraction topping here: sweet yellow onions. Cut into bite-size portions and cooked in a mix of Texas honey (sourced from Texas Honeybee Guild), Sriracha sauce and red wine vinegar, they gave the burger a one-two punch of sweetness and fire.
Other trimmings included three slices of crisp bacon, three slices of cheddar cheese, a leaf of romaine lettuce and a coating of Sriracha mayo. My favorite was hidden underneath all the others: a half-dozen Nathan’s horseradish pickles, crunchy, a bit sweet, a tad hot.
The sides: As of yet, Muller doesn’t serve french fries. Instead you have a choice of chips, braised red cabbage, German potato salad, sauerkraut, mashed potatoes and glazed carrots.
I usually go for the thing that I shouldn’t, especially with a burger: the skin-on mashed potatoes. If you’re having a burger at Swiss, the way I figure, you’ve already thrown caloric sense to the wind; might as well go all-in.
The verdict: Another great burger from a place that seemingly doesn’t know how to make a bad one.
3936 W. Vickery Blvd., Fort Worth, 817-732-5661, www.swisspastryonline.com. Hours: 6 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Friday, 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturday. The dining room is closed between 3:30 and 5 p.m. Tuesday-Friday and 3 and 5 p.m. Saturday.