The DFW.com Burger of the Week can be tricky. Some restaurants do their own burgers of the week, which often vanish before we can get to them. And then there are the joints that do Burgers of the Month, also somewhat fleeting.
But it’s with a Burger of the Month that we go this week: The Texas sweet tea onion burger at Snuffer’s.
The Dallas-based chain has been steadily expanding: It opened a Southlake location nearly a decade ago, and within the past few months it opened locations in Colleyville (perhaps not coincidentally across Colleyville Boulevard from Teddy’s Bigger Burgers, purveyor of a previous Burger of the Week) and the Arlington Highlands.
Snuffer’s has yet to dive into the burger world of Fort Worth proper, but it’s still making its presence felt on the western side of the Metroplex.
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The burger: The Texas sweet tea onion burger ($9.49) is described as a 100 percent fresh-ground-chuck patty topped with Texas sweet-tea caramelized onions, Nathan’s Famous Gourmet Sweet Horseradish Pickles, applewood-smoked bacon strips, Tillamook Medium Cheddar Cheese and whole-grain white-truffle mustard.
The patty: Requested medium, the patty came without any hint of pink but was still juicy, nicely seasoned and flavorful and, considering all those ingredients, managed to shine instead of getting upstaged. Its name might not be in lights, but it’s the star of this burger. (A ground white-turkey patty and a chipotle black-bean patty are available on request; so is a chicken patty, but we think by that time you’ve gone and ordered a chicken sandwich.)
The bun: A patented Snuffer’s poppy-seed bun (check your smile afterward) made it about halfway through the burger before we had to take the knife-and-fork route.
The toppings: The onions were in such small strips that we had to go hunting for them; when we found them, we got a nice touch of sweetness that reduced the onion bite. Let’s just say that if you don’t like onions on your burger, these aren’t going to bother you too much.
The bacon, on the other hand, was generous and crisply cooked, a nice complement to the patty. And although we couldn’t really detect the horseradish in the pickles, we weren’t complaining: We appreciated the thick slices, which weren’t too sweet, as sweet pickles can sometimes be.
Even though we have photographic evidence of the cheese, we really didn’t notice it. The mustard was also surprisingly subtle. As a whole, everything worked, but some of the toppings did more work than others.
The sides: We couldn’t find the cheese on the burger, but we sure found it on the signature cheddar fries ($3.99 for a “small” order). They were smothered in melted Wisconsin cheddar, and yet it was the salt-and-peppery seasoning of the fries we liked most — it topped the cheddar as well.
We ordered the fries with the bacon bits, chives and jalapeños that come on the side for an extra $1.99, but after adding those extras for the first few bites, we decided that we liked the seasoned fries just the way they are. Snuffer’s will celebrate National Cheddar Fries Day (which it also helped originate) on April 20. Order a large and celebrate with friends.
The verdict: We did not include Snuffer’s in our 2015 DFW.com Battle of the Burgers, but this burger was good enough for us to consider it for the next battle. Add to that Snuffer’s expansion and a regular menu item that caught our eye — a Dr Pepper barbecue burger — and Snuffer’s has our attention once again.
Snuffer’s Restaurant and Bar (nine DFW locations, including Arlington, Colleyville and Southlake). Burger of the Week tasting took place at Colleyville location, 4717 Colleyville Blvd., 682-325-3625; www.snuffers.com.