Food & Drink

Restaurant review: Pouring Glory Growler Fill Station and Grill

Thai tropic pork shank and avocado bacon burger at Pouring Glory Growler Fill Station & Grill in Fort Worth
Thai tropic pork shank and avocado bacon burger at Pouring Glory Growler Fill Station & Grill in Fort Worth Star-Telegram

Don’t own a growler? Don’t let that stop you from visiting Pouring Glory Growler Fill Station and Grill.

In addition to 54 beers on tap, Pouring Glory, on Fort Worth’s burgeoning near south side, has a small but playful gastropub menu that appeals to hipsters and family folk alike.

Owners Kevin Ehrenfried and Scott Glover renovated a small 1940s building near Rosedale and Main streets, giving it an industrial vibe with cement floor, exposed-brick interior, garage-style glass doors that are raised up in good weather and a still-being-developed back patio that has the potential to host large, thirsty crowds.

The brewpub is small, and we had to wait a while to be seated for a Saturday-night visit.

We’d heard good things about the brisket home slice nachos ($10.99) and we were not disappointed. The “chips” are, actually, potato slices, or “Irish nachos,” as some places call them. The potato rounds are sliced thick, cooked to an appealing crunchy brown on the outside, but still soft on the inside.

Layered atop the “chips” is plentiful melted cheese, chopped green onions, chopped fresh jalapeños that had quite a kick, cubes of brisket, barbecue sauce and sour cream. Our brisket nachos disappeared quickly and we’d absolutely order these again if we were sitting around drinking beer (or in my case cider), though we’d pass on the nachos if we were ordering sandwiches, for reasons we’ll get to in a sec.

We also tried the jumbo pretzel ($3.99), which was buttery and salty and served with a Rahr beer queso that had detectable chunks of hot red and green peppers. We quite liked this beery queso.

Our waitress told us the fried bacon Thai burger ($11.50) is the bestselling meal. We ordered the burger medium well, which it was. The burger came topped with cheddar, a sweet pepper Thai sauce and, yes, crisscrossed strips of chicken-fried bacon.

As we said, the Thai burger is their bestseller so we may be alone in this, but we found the fried coating on the bacon to be too much. The crunchy batter hid the smoky bacon flavor and, in fact, it seemed like the fat portions of the bacon might not have gotten a thorough cooking with the batter soaking up the heat. We ended up removing the fried bacon from our burger, which we were quite content with otherwise.

We also tried the maple-bacon burger ($11.99) and are glad we did because we were thoroughly happy with it. We ordered this burger medium and, yes, the center was the correct amount of pink. Both burgers were served on a brioche bun that held up well to moist toppings and burger drippings.

The maple-bacon burger was topped with sauteed mushrooms and onions, a melty slice of provolone, maple-bacon glaze and crisp bacon, with the sweet-smoky flavor of the bacon coming through nicely this time. Pickle slices added a bit of crunch, making this an all-around excellent burger.

The PG Philly ($10.99) was a cross between a Philly cheesesteak and a French dip sandwich. Sliced beef and melted cheese were layered thickly on a sub bun that was branded with a “PG.” Sauteed onions and mushrooms added a bit of pizzazz, and there was a side of au jus for dipping your sandwich. A good alternative for those times when you want to stray from the burger track.

And here’s the reason we wouldn’t order the brisket nachos again if we were ordering sandwiches: All three sandwiches were served with a generous portion of those fried home-slice potatoes. Kudos to Pouring Glory for having malt vinegar for those of us who like our fries the British way.

Finally, we tried the Korean beef tacos (2 for $9.99 or 3 for $12.99) and were delighted both with the attractive presentation and the flavor. Flour tortillas, again branded with the “PG” logo, were filled with intensely flavored Korean-style bulgolgi marinated beef, shredded red cabbage, sesame seeds and bits of green that might have been cilantro.

The owners are still tinkering with the menu and will add a chalkboard with daily specials. We hope the Korean beef tacos will remain on the daily menu.

Pouring Glory Growler Fill Station and Grill