If you’re looking to fulfill a gyro jones or needing a quick midday wrap, you could do worse than visit the Kitchen in Crowley, a mom-and-pop pit stop where Frank Odeh and his wife, Maya, who moved here last year from Hot Springs, Ark., have set up shop.
Discerning Greek-food lovers, however, might be a little disappointed by this 8-month-old restaurant situated along a busy industrial stretch of the Fort Worth suburb. Black olives that adorn the salads are noticeably canned, and the hummus is ho-hum.
The diner-esque menu spans grape leaves ($6.99) to gyros ($6.99), with po-boys (catfish or shrimp, $6.99), a fried-chicken sandwich ($6.99) and a spanakopita plate ($10.99) sharing counter space with hot wings ($6.99) and lamb chops ($11.99).
The latter was two fist-sized portions of meat, cooked to our medium-rare request, served atop dry yellow rice and accompanied by a small Greek salad. The chops, while still pink inside, lacked juiciness and were more fatty than I like. The salad — iceberg, tomatoes, cucumbers, feta and the aforementioned olives — would have benefited from the traditional oregano or even salt and pepper.
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A few other dishes also unfortunately missed the mark, including the hummus, a tahini-heavy rendition that was oily and too-garlicky, and the fried cauliflower ($3), an overfried tangle that badly needed seasoning.
Our meal had a few bright spots, though, especially on the wrap/sandwich front. The chicken shawarma wrap ($6.99), pieces of chicken with a dollop of hummus, tomato, lettuce and purple onion, worked well enmeshed in a large pita. A cheeseburger ($6.99) featured nicely melted cheese and a pillowy sesame-seeded roll alongside crinkle-cut fries that could have used more salt.
The gyro plate ($11.99) showcased oddly shaped chunks of the dependably tasty beef-and-lamb mixture and a nice homemade tzatziki. It, too, was served with the yellow rice and a small serving of the Greek salad.
Odeh and his wife have gamely entered the local fray after leaving a successful enterprise back in Hot Springs called Pink Olive Café.
This new kitchen might need a few more cooks, judging from the time it took to get our meal on a recent evening. But the service is friendly, the food unpretentious, and, hey, it’s good to know there are so many kinds of olives all over.
The Kitchen in Crowley
10138 N. Crowley Road
Facebook: The Kitchen in Crowley
Hours: 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-8 p.m. Monday-Wednesday, 10:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Thursday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday