Food & Drink

Eats Beat: Fort Worth restaurants earn TV fame

The sunset at Flight at Eagle Mountain Lake.
The sunset at Flight at Eagle Mountain Lake. Star-Telegram

Small restaurants are big news.

Billy’s Oak Acres BBQ, 90-year-old pie haven Carshon’s Deli, upstart Enchiladas Olé and timeless Kincaid’s Hamburgers are featured in Eat the Nation, a new Cooking Channel show airing again 2:30 p.m. Sunday and at least twice more in December.

“They wanted small, local restaurants — the best unknowns,” said Mary Perez of Enchiladas Olé. She has turned old-school sauces into an enchilada empire.

Eat the Nation host Ching He-Huang was interested in her sauce recipes and identified turmeric and other uncommon ingredients right away, Perez said.

Perez also made her breakfast super-stack tostada, part of a new Saturday breakfast menu.

At Kincaid’s, Jonathan Gentry said the show focused on the house-ground beef and precision behind 50 years of burgers.

Featured: Billy’s Oak Acres, 1700 N. Las Vegas Trail, 817-367-2200, billysoakacresbbq.com; Carshon’s Deli, 3133 Cleburne Road, 817-923-1907, carshonsdeli.com; Enchiladas Ole, 901 N. Sylvania Ave., 817-984-1360, enchiladasole.com; Kincaid’s Hamburgers’ flagship, 4901 Camp Bowie Blvd., 817-732-2881, and five other locations, kincaidshamburgers.com.

Docked on Boat Club

On Boat Club Road, Mama’s Texican Kitchen and its spinoff next door, the Local Social Burger Bar, are bringing new spirit to a former grocery-convenience store known mostly for its days as Possum Lodge or Bubba’s.

Mama’s owners Michael Thornton and Michelle Borquez-Thornton have stacked a Tex-Mex restaurant alongside a burger and home-cooking grill. Mama’s popular dishes are the brisket or chicken enchiladas and tacos or Saturday breakfasts.

Mama’s Texican is open for lunch and dinner daily, breakfast Saturdays (with Sunday breakfast coming soon); 9120 Boat Club Road, 817-708-2876, mamastexicankitchen.com.

The adjacent Local Social Burger Bar is open only for dinner weekdays, lunch and dinner Saturdays and lunch Sundays.

Around the bend, the Flight on Eagle Mountain Lake is a new effort for chef Ted Beechler and owners David and Jamie Bryant, moving into the old Harbor One.

The “flight” in the name refers to “small plate” portions.

The menu offers unusual items such as fried rabbit or bison shepherd’s pie, but hopes are highest for the weekend brunch: bananas Foster French toast, maple-bacon doughnuts, muffulettas and po-boys.

Flight is open daily for lunch and dinner and at 9 a.m. weekends at 9307 Boat Club Road; 817-882-6910, flightonthelake.com.

Bud Kennedy: 817-390-7538, bud@star-telegram.com, @EatsBeat. His column appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com.

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