Food & Drink

Eats Beat: New faces, new dishes, new prices at Hedary’s Lebanese

Call it a Hedary’s handoff.

Joseph Hedary has taken overthe family’s flagship west Fort Worth restaurant, moving his cooking and low prices from the south side’s popular Celaborelle.

He makes two promises.

“Bigger meals and lower prices,” he said this week, serving up a $7.50 grilled chicken Greek salad large enough for two to share.

“I told the family I’d take this location. I want to build it back.”

Hedary’s, for 40 years the city’s definitive Mediterranean restaurant, has been passed among family members recently with erratic service and success.

Joseph Hedary closed Celaborelle a month ago and moved into Hedary’s kitchen, quickly bringing the more varied menu and bargain prices that made Celaborelle popular with the medical district crowd and Fairmount neighbors.

Operating Hedary’s as a small, family-run, casual cafe, he serves lunch and dinner for $7-$12 or $15. Appetizers such as tabbouleh or baba ghannouj cost as little as $2 or $3.

Right away, he added two favorites from the south side restaurant: baked stuffed eggplant or squash, $9.95.

The signature Hedary’s Greek chicken is $6.95 for a leg and thigh. Kebabs and shawarma dinners start at less than $10, and the small cheese or ground-sirloin pizzas cost $3.95. Entree-sized salads start at $3.50.

Hedary’s price point now matches fast-casual, counter-service family cafes.

(The service is counter-only at lunch, with Hedary running a solo operation some days — like at Celaborelle — so don’t be in a rush.)

“This location means so much to my family, I’d hate to lose it,” he said.

As business builds, he says he hopes to reopen Celaborelle.

Hedary’s is open for lunch weekdays and dinner nightly, except for Mondays. It is on the Fairfield Avenue side of the Village at Camp Bowie shopping center, 6323 Camp Bowie Blvd., 817-731-6961.

(The website at hedarys.com has not been updated; instead, see facebook.com/joseph.hedary.)

Another George

The other legacy Mediterranean restaurant in Fort Worth has a new owner but is keeping it in the family.

George Phiripes, a sports management professional from the San Francisco Bay area, said this week he will move here and take over his late grandfather’s Greek deli and import grocery on White Settlement Road.

Founder George Phiripes, 96, died Nov. 23. Since 1951, he or his family have operated George’s Imported Foods, originally a drive-in grocery near the West Fork bridge over the Trinity River.

The grocery has been open intermittently in recent years, but is known for simple Greek salads and dolmades.

Phiripes has been working in another Greek-owned family restaurant, the Kithas family’s Jazz Cafe, to prepare for his first restaurant venture.

He said he hopes to start with a simple lunch menu and import items, and eventually add a small market. George’s will reopen by spring, he said.

The location is next to a Trinity Trails trailhead and also to the forthcoming Thurber Mingus, a designer-burgers-tacos-and-craft-beers hangout by former country club chef Coby Baumann that is replacing a former “beach club” bar.

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