Food & Drink

Eats Beat: Bakery family tries cafe in Colleyville spot

Billy’s Oak Acres may add a location or even leave its iconic backroad landmark.
Billy’s Oak Acres may add a location or even leave its iconic backroad landmark. Special to the Star-Telegram

One of Texas’ best-known restaurant and bakery families is back in Colleyville.

The Harris family, long ago founders of the Celebrity Cafe & Bakery chain, will open a casual lunch and dinner cafe named Sonsie House Kitchen in the 62 Main St. anchor space of the Village at Colleyville.

Granddaughter Amy Hoepker began a phone call by stating the obvious: “First of all, this is nothing like Celebrity.” (The family first opened a short-lived Southlake cafe, Silver Spoon Bakery, that skirted too close to the original.)

The lowland Scottish term sonsy means lucky or prosperous. It’s often spelled sonsie in literature and describes a well-rounded woman.

“We want this to feel like a happy house, like they’re coming into our home for something fresh from our kitchen,” Hoepker said.

Sonsie House will have new family versions of chipotle chicken salad and familiar bakery-cafe favorites in addition to dishes like slow-cooked shredded-beef tacos with serranos.

The second-story space at 62 Main has been home to at least 10 restaurants serving everything from tapas to sushi, usually charging too much and offering too little for Colleyville’s big and busy families.

“The previous restaurants were trying to do an upscale, multiple-course, three-hour dinner,” Hoepker said. “Colleyville needs someplace people can afford every day.”

Sonsie House will have wines, beers and an evening menu of comfort-food entrees and sandwiches and salads, Hoepker added. There’s no website yet, but watch 62 Main St., one block west of Pleasant Run Road.

(The Celebrity they started remains open under different owners at 5509 Colleyville Blvd.; enjoycelebrity.com.)

New on the boulevard

Nearby, a new location of Houston-based Black Walnut Cafe is taking shape.

Black Walnut is a large restaurant with a family-friendly menu and desserts, already open in Allen, Coppell, Flower Mound and Frisco.

The Colleyville location will be at 1205 Church St.; blackwalnutcafe.com.

Hawaii-based Teddy’s Bigger Burgers is the city’s most recent opening. A Snuffer’s Restaurant & Bar will open next month at 4717 Colleyville Blvd.

Beefing up the west side

Billy’s Oak Acres BBQ is a tremendous success in a historic old country tavern on North Las Vegas Trail.

But owner Billy Woodrich is looking for more space closer to downtown, and has settled on a warehouse space at 205 N. Vacek St.

Although that’s just two blocks from long-standing Fort Worth favorite Angelo’s, this is not a worry.

“There’s so much going on in that area, we’ll both be busy,” Woodrich said.

He’s undecided about what will happen with the current location, a 1962-vintage wood-paneled tavern and barbecue hangout. “It needs a lot of work,” he said. Meanwhile, he has also been smoking prime ribs and brisket for other restaurants, including for the new brisket enchiladas at Enchiladas Olé.

Billy’s is open for lunch daily except Mondays, and for dinner Tuesdays through Saturdays until sold out; 1700 N. Las Vegas Trail, 817-367-2200, billysoakacresbbq.com.

Bud Kennedy: 817-390-7538, bud@star-telegram.com, @EatsBeat.

His column appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com.

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