Food & Drink

Eats Beat: Schnitzel with your strudel? Swiss Pastry adds dinner

Sauerbraten, potatoes and sautéed cabbage at Swiss Pastry Shop.
Sauerbraten, potatoes and sautéed cabbage at Swiss Pastry Shop. Star-Telegram

The Swiss Pastry Shop has grown beyond cake and sandwiches.

Owner Hans Peter Muller’s dream comes true next week, when the west side bakery-cafe will launch a German dinner menu.

“We’ve always wanted to do something at night, with the dishes my mom cooked for me like beef stroganoff and Wiener schnitzel and sauerbraten,” Muller said.

Muller’s father, Hans, came from Zell, Switzerland, and popularized Black Forest cake in Fort Worth as chef at the old Green Oaks Inn and at Ridglea Country Club.

The younger Muller expanded the shop’s mission from the original 1972 “pastries and sandwiches” to gourmet burgers, and he continues that menu of Wagyu beef burgers and “Fort Worth” cheesesteaks.

Chef Peter Kreidler brings his experience working at two highly regarded restaurants, Clay Pigeon Food & Drink in Fort Worth and Neighborhood Services in Dallas.

His launch menu is notable for affordable prices — $9-$18 for dinner — and for variety, from an Akaushi flatiron-steak schnitzel to lighter smoked-salmon quiche and salads.

Swiss Pastry also adds German sides, potato pancakes and a beer selection.

The dinner menu also includes the burgers ($9-$11) and the shop’s familiar Black Forest cake, plus other cakes and pies.

Its West Vickery Boulevard location has always been a working-class strip along the Union Pacific rail line, but Muller sees new dinner traffic from Chisholm Trail Parkway and nearby developments along South Hulen Street or Bryant Irvin Road. He says he hopes to eventually develop the Swiss as a European market-cafe.

Neighbors Flying Fish and the Railhead Smokehouse are busy at night, and new Thai Terrace’s business is growing.

After a test run this weekend, Swiss Pastry will be open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Tuesdays through Saturdays; 3936 W. Vickery Blvd., 817-732-5661, swisspastryonline.com.

When it’s hot, it’s Hatch season

After peach season comes Hatch green chile season.

The first of several annual “green chile festivals” is underway at El Fenix Restaurants, featuring the chiles from Hatch, N.M.

El Fenix’s specials include a green chile-pork burrito and green chile-Monterey Jack cheese enchiladas, either regular or stacked and “crispy.” (Like chalupas?)

Central Market’s grocery specials, including green chile-chocolate chip ice cream and green chile-lime cheesecake, have begun.

Pappasito’s Cantina will start Hatch specials Aug. 12, and Chuy’s Tex-Mex’s “festival” starts Aug. 17.

Plenty of pizza

The pizza saturation point is nearing, but one of Dallas’ best pizzerias will open a Ridglea location in west Fort Worth.

Olivella’s Neo Pizza Napoletana, which makes both northern Italian- and southern Italian-style pizzas, will open at 6333 Camp Bowie Blvd. in the former shopping-center home of a Jake’s Burgers.

That’s only two blocks from Campisi’s and take-out favorite Rocco’s Wood Fired Pizza, and not that far from Thirteen Pies in the West 7th shops.

For now, visit Olivella’s original location, 3406 McFarlin Blvd., behind Goff’s Hamburgers, or other stores in Lakewood or Victory Park; 214-528-7070, olivellas.com.

The TCU area’s popular Pizza Snob also has opened a new location in Denton: 321 W. Hickory St., 940-891-1600, pizzasnob.com.

Bud Kennedy’s column appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com. 817-390-7538

Twitter: @EatsBeat

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