Food & Drink

A Corral City trailer produces fine 407BBQ

Brisket, pulled pork and pork ribs with smoked corn at 407BBQ in Corral City.
Brisket, pulled pork and pork ribs with smoked corn at 407BBQ in Corral City.

As a barbecue competition winner and caterer, Bryan McLarty always swore he was too busy to open a restaurant.

Now that 407BBQ is open, he’s taking it slowly.

First, McLarty parked a trailer alongside a liquor store on Interstate 35W north of Texas Motor Speedway and began smoking brisket and ribs.

Then he enclosed the porch as a trailer-park “dining room.”

“Aw, I figured we ought to give the customers a place to get out of the rain,” McLarty said this week, presiding over the lunch rush.

Soon, he’ll build a restaurant: “I want to let this thing grow.”

“This thing” is 407BBQ, maybe the best brisket or pork north of the Tarrant or Dallas county lines.

McLarty won barbecue cookoffs and toured the nation as BigFish BBQ, doing charity events.

He uses prime brisket, he said. The sausage is Syracuse jalapeño or black-pepper flavor from nearby Ponder; other choices include smoked chicken or bologna.

Dinner plates with sides such as mac-and-cheese or smoked corn cost $13 to $18, with sandwiches selling for $9 and $10 with chips.

Unless you really want to go stand in line at Pecan Lodge in Dallas or Heim BBQ in Fort Worth, 407BBQ’s brisket will do nicely. The pork is exceptionally good for a Texas restaurant, maybe in part because McLarty has to satisfy Southerners coming to speedway races nearby.

Whenever he builds a restaurant, it won’t be much bigger, he said: “I’m not a strip [shopping] center kind of guy, where you’re trying to sell barbecue next to the dog groomer or the nail salon.”

The 407BBQ dining porch is open for lunch and early dinner until 7 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays; 1213 Farm Road 407 at Corral City Drive, off Interstate 35W in Corral City (most mapping programs use “Argyle”). 214-908-3461;

M Bistro coming

Chef Steve Mitchell, formerly of Lucile’s and Yucatan Taco Stand, isn’t listening to talk about his new Montgomery Plaza location being “cursed.”

“The curse will be lifted,” Mitchell wrote on social media after announcing his new M Bistro American Tap House & Grille in Montgomery Plaza.

M Bistro replaces King Crab Tap House, but the space was originally built for a steakhouse.

Mitchell said there’s a demand in Montgomery Plaza for a bar and chef-driven restaurant.

He’ll bring his lobster bisque recipe, smoked tenderloin and brunch dishes. M Bistro will open this fall for lunch or brunch and dinner, he said.

Tin Top Italian

Haven’t made the drive yet, but hearing good reports about Mamma Monica, a folksy-friendly Italian restaurant in the Tin Top community between Weatherford and Granbury.

Monica Russo and son Davide Facincani moved to Parker County for the cutting horse industry, but Russo has opened the little restaurant serving a lunch buffet and dinner menu with simple, handmade Italian dishes.

The dinners cost $10 to $12. More soon; 5107 New Tin Top Road, 817-818-2948,

Doughnuts to-do

Missouri-based Hurts Donut Co., a 24-hour “extreme doughnuts” shop with 70 flavors popular for its Norman, Okla., location, has opened its first DFW location at 3288 Main St. in Frisco, with four more to follow.

The Facebook warning: “Very extreme lines and demand. … Expect to wait 90-120 minutes.”

Bud Kennedy: 817-390-7538,, @EatsBeat. His column appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in