Food & Drink

Last call for dinner at Swiss Pastry Shop

Weisswurst, one of the items on the German dinner menu at Swiss Pastry Shop. Dinner service ends there Dec. 23.
Weisswurst, one of the items on the German dinner menu at Swiss Pastry Shop. Dinner service ends there Dec. 23. Star-Telegram archives

In August 2015, Swiss Pastry Shop owner Hans Peter Muller realized a longtime dream of serving a German dinner menu at his Vickery Boulevard diner, which was long known for breakfast, lunch and dessert, including its popular Black Forest cake.

That dream comes to an end Dec. 23, Muller has announced.

“We have been operating at a small loss most weeks for dinner since we opened [for dinner],” Muller said in a Facebook email exchange. “It has depleted our bank account. We had to stop the bleeding because everything else is profitable.”

The German dinner menu was inspired by dishes that Muller’s mom cooked for him when he was growing up. “If your previous exposure to [German] cuisine has been limited to lackluster wienerschnitzels and boring bratwurst, you’re in for ... a treat,” DFW.com contributor Anna Caplan wrote in her review of the dinner menu in October 2015.

Muller says he had to lure a local chef with a following to the restaurant, but was unsuccessful. Chef Peter Kreidler, whose background includes Clay Pigeon in Fort Worth and Neighborhood Services in Dallas, left Swiss Pastry recently to manage the buffet at the Kimbell Art Museum (third item in link).

During the past few years, Muller has been working on an evolution of the restaurant, which was founded by his father, Hans, in 1972.

“The younger Muller expanded the shop’s mission from the original 1972 ‘pastries and sandwiches’ to gourmet burgers, and he continues that menu of Wagyu beef burgers and ‘Fort Worth’ cheesesteaks,” our Bud Kennedy wrote when reporting on the launch of the dinner service in 2015.

Those will still be available during the day, but if you want to visit in the evening, you only have a little more than a week left.

And let us be joyful that the Black Forest cake still lives.

Swiss Pastry is at 3936 W. Vickery Blvd. in Fort Worth.

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