If there’s one thing you can say about Revolver Taco Lounge, it is never dull.
Since the restaurant first opened on Fort Worth’s West Seventh Street in 2011, its fortunes have generated enough twists and turns to put a soap opera to shame, with plans to close, plans to move and plans to open more branches.
In a happy ending for diners, this family-run restaurant found new digs on Forest Park Boulevard, in the space most recently occupied by Sera Dining & Wine, where it is doing what it does best: serving what is said to be some of the best Michoacan food to be found outside Mexico.
The menu is essentially the same as it has always been, with a long list of tacos, a few appetizers, entrees and three amazing moles.
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The setup feels modern; you can eat cheaply and very well. Make a meal of tacos, or have a taco and then share one of the highly memorable main options. They’re also beginning to introduce specials including Mexican finger-food at the bar, such as a “Mexican hot dog” wrapped in bacon.
The signature dish, birria de chivo ($28) or roasted goat, is one of a kind. No one else has goat like this: served in a dark, profoundly complex stew that enhances the flavor of the goat, which falls apart in tender shards, easy to stuff inside the excellent accompanying house-made tortillas.
Chile en nogada ($28) is always one of the more sophisticated versions of the chile relleno, thanks to its unique ingredients and European-style sauce.
At Revolver, it was filled with a mixture of chopped pork, beef, onion, raisins, almonds, pears and peaches, with the fruit lending a subtle sweetness for a result that was rich and unexpected. The sauce, a pale cream whose ingredients included walnuts, almonds and sherry, was lush and indulgent.
Revolver makes red and green moles ($30), which you can get with chicken, duck breast or fish. A third, the rojo ($28), is a little more spicy; it comes with lamb chops and Mexican rice.
Meat is definitely the way to go here, as vegetarian options are few. The kitchen makes a noble effort with an enchilada plate ($15), in which enchiladas are filled with cheesy mashed potatoes and topped with shredded lettuce. The filling was novel and flavorful, sloppy and satisfying. But amusingly, the enchilada comes with a “side” of a very tender chicken leg (which, obviously, vegetarians can skip).
There’s a squash taco ($2.50), but that should be avoided. Watery, funky in flavor, the sauteed zucchini filling highlighted the vegetable’s worst traits.
The rest of the tacos ($3-$5) were a catalog of interesting meats with gourmet goods: duck breast with poblano pepper, rib-eye with tomatillo salsa, slow-cooked beef tongue with onion; and seafood, including mahi mahi with slaw, shrimp with pickled beet, and a $7 taco with lobster and crab.
A handy route to try the tacos is the lunchtime buffet ($12); lunch is where you can also participate in a clever build-your-own quesadilla deal (starting at $5), with ingredients such as chorizo, huitlachoche and a sunny-side-up egg.
The new space is a right-angle setup with windows all around. There’s with a cool bar on the upper level, and an adjoining dining room where families decamp with their kids.
If you sit at the bar, you can capture glimpses of the adjacent kitchen, where owner Regino Rojas and his family prepare the food. You can see the ladies making the tortillas by hand, straight from the kitchen to your plate.
Revolver Taco Lounge
- 2418 Forest Park Blvd., Fort Worth
- Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Sunday