Food & Drink

For both Paco’s and Revolver Taco, a move and an upgrade

Chilaquiles guajillos with fried eggs and beef at Revolver Taco.
Chilaquiles guajillos with fried eggs and beef at Revolver Taco. bud@star-telegram.com

Both Paco’s Mexican Cuisine and Revolver Taco Lounge have returned, and both are better than ever.

They’re both in south Fort Worth now, a five-minute drive apart. And they both deserve credit as two of the most distinctive and inventive Mexican restaurants we’ve ever seen.

For now, Paco’s is only open for breakfast and lunch. Chef Francisco Islas, half of the former Paco & John Diner, promises dinners will return soon with Yucatecano mole dishes, duck and lamb.

A breakfast platter of chilaquiles ($7.95) in guajillo chile with a fried egg and arracheras (grilled beef) was reminiscent of brunch dishes at La Duni in Dallas.

Other brunch dishes include huevos divorciados (one with red salsa, one green), migas and a breakfast sandwich with bacon, eggs and poblano rajas.

Lunches, mostly $7-$9, range from simple enchiladas and quesadillas to $3 street tacos or Paco’s standout original Caesar Cardini salad, named for the Tijuana chef who invented it.

The new Paco’s also offers homemade paletas ($2.50) or fresh churros with either cajeta or cream.

It’s open at 7:30 a.m. weekdays, 10 a.m. weekends at 1508 W. Magnolia Ave., 817-759-9110; pacoscuisine.com.

Revolver reloads

Revolver Taco, newly settled on Forest Park Boulevard, has new menu items and also a new price point.

On the “Taco Tuesday” half-price special this week, street tacos al pastor on fresh handmade tortillas sold for $2, with margaritas or sangria for $4.

There’s also a new small guacamolito appetizer for $3, so Revolver can be a casual taco-bar hangout. The regular menu offers $3 and $4 tacos and has a separate bar offering oysters.

All the more developed Revolver entrees remain, including the interior-Mexico chile en nogada roasted poblano in walnut-cream sauce ($28), and the Michoacán-style bone-in roasted goat (birria de chivo) of Andrew Zimmern TV fame.

The mole dishes come in Puebla-style traditional flavor, pipian verde or rich Michoacán red, with a choice of chicken, duck or fish ($25-$30).

Revolver has a guisado taco buffet at lunch, a Sunday buffet brunch and a wide selection of margaritas, tequilas and craft cocktails.

It’s open for lunch and dinner Tuesdays through Saturdays and brunch Sunday; 2418 Forest Park Blvd., 817-820-0122, revolvertacolounge.com.

New at the Kimbell

Now it can be told: Peter Kreidler, the chef de cuisine for Swiss Pastry Shop’s German dinner menu, is the new Kimbell Art Museum Buffet manager.

Kreidler succeeds retiring 30-year Kimbell chef Shelby Schafer, whose soups, stews and chili made the Kimbell a wintertime favorite and a destination for dining as well as for art.

The Buffet is running a simplified French-inspired menu right now to go with the “Monet: The Early Years” exhibit. Watch for Kreidler’s touch on coming menus.

(I have no idea how the French menu will co-exist with the Kimbell’s traditional Stock Show-week Texas chili.)

The Kimbell is open for lunch daily except Mondays and also for early dinner Fridays; 817-332-8451, ext. 277; kimbellart.org/visit/dining.

Italian for Colleyville

A former “children’s fitness” gym will become a new Italian restaurant in Colleyville.

Loveria Caffe — Taste of Italy is planned for an anchor spot in Town Center Colleyville.

Realtor Michelle Rawls is teaming up with restaurateurs from Ravenna, Italy, to launch an ambitious patio restaurant with cooking demonstrations and wine tastings. It’s expected to open by the holidays; 5615 Colleyville Blvd., Suite 410, loveriacaffe.com.

Bud Kennedy: 817-390-7538, bud@star-telegram.com, @EatsBeat. His column appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com.

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