Food & Drink

New in north Fort Worth, locally operated Liberty dives into burger scene

A Liberty Burger with steakhouse onion rings and a cherry pie.
A Liberty Burger with steakhouse onion rings and a cherry pie.

Like a beacon amid the freeway chain-restaurant wasteland, a shiny new Liberty Burger is open in far north Fort Worth.

If you remember Snookie’s, Liberty is the Street family’s new burger grill for the 21st century.

On a stretch of Interstate 35W lined with cookie-cutter corporate chains from elsewhere, Liberty Burger serves a big, thick Texas burger that’s full of flavor, with thick onion rings like you’d find at one of the Street family’s steakhouses.

Just as Rodeo Goat is a spinoff from restaurateur Shannon Wynne’s family, Liberty Burger is Mariel Street’s chance to show what she learned from Gene Street.

The menu offers a choice of about 10 burger combinations, some homestyle or spicy and others made with turkey or grains or tuna, plus spring or kale salads, sides, desserts and cocktails or spiked milkshakes.

The burgers are made with a grass-fed beef blend, larger, thicker and juicier than most of today’s bar-and-grill burgers. Bison, turkey or veggie choices are available.

Liberty goes out of its way to play up “The Bun” — celebrated on the menu as from a “locally owned artisan bakery” — and the sauces, a chipotle ketchup, horseradish mustard and hot sauce also sold as gifts online. (For the sake of freedom, the restaurant also offers both Heinz and Hunt’s ketchups.)

On a visit last weekend, the burger ($6, cheeseburger $7) was impressive, but the buttermilk-battered onion rings ($5) were the show-stoppers.

The menu tops out at $12.50 for the ahi tuna burger with wasabi aioli. There’s also a combined breakfast-on-a-burger topped with ham, bacon, hashbrowns and an egg ($10).

The kids’ menu offers a burger, chicken sandwich, grilled cheese or chicken fingers with fruit or fries and a drink ($6).

Our Robert Philpot’s online review listed all the out-of-town chains within a few blocks of Liberty at 8917 North Freeway (Interstate 35W), south of Old Chicago Pizza.

There’s a Kincaid’s Hamburgers about a mile north across the interstate, but otherwise Liberty is one of few local owner-operated restaurants in that area.

It’s open for lunch and dinner daily; 817-847-7771,

Northeast nosh

The annual “Taste of Northeast” (as in Northeast Tarrant County) is a week away.

But don’t wait. Tickets are $25 in advance for the annual Hurst festival featuring samples from about 20 suburban restaurants, or $20 for Star-Telegram Press Pass customers.

Bizzi’s Bistro & Wine Bar in Bedford, a Wine Spectator award-winner, will serve a selection of crostinis topped with beef, ricotta or bacon jam, with a Caesar salad and tomato-basil soup.

The new Black Walnut Cafe in Colleyville will serve lemon chicken pasta and Southwest hummus. Hometown favorite Miguelito’s from Hurst will serve shredded chicken Azteca with queso, rice and salsa.

The Taste is at 5:30 p.m. Nov. 9 in the Hurst Convention Center, 1601 Campus Drive. For tickets, call 817-283-3406 or see

A daily Paco’s

The owner of Paco & John Diner said it’d be back, and now Paco’s has reopened.

The new Paco’s Mexican Cuisine is open seven days, serving breakfast and lunch weekdays and brunch weekends. It’s on West Magnolia Avenue, just two blocks from the former location on Eighth Avenue.

Paco’s reopened in style, offering duck eggs Benedict on the weekend brunch along with the familiar quesadillas, tacos and empanadas.

It’s open at 7:30 a.m weekdays, 10 a.m. weekends for now, with dinner hours coming later.

Look for Paco’s one block east of Baylor All Saints Medical Center, 1508 W. Magnolia Ave.; 817-759-9110,

Bud Kennedy: 817-390-7538,, @EatsBeat. His column appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in