There’s a late addition to the list of Fort Worth restaurants that have tweaked their menus for spring.
Winslow’s Wine Cafe, which changes its menu twice a year, is actually labeling the new one it launched a couple of weeks ago as “summer.” Either way, when the weather’s warm, chefs tend to turn their attention to fresh produce, and that’s great news for vegetarian eating.
At dinner, there’s now an excellent tri-colored gnocchi ($18), with three varieties of the pillowy little potato dumplings. Instead of a heavy cream sauce, the menu promised lots of veggies, but I was still taken aback by how much veg there was in this dish, including Swiss chard, tender spring peas and perfectly crisp-tender fava beans and asparagus, all coated with brown butter. I’ll be having this often.
The pizza list has a new meatless one that’s winningly named the “Yellow Rose of Texas” ($15). It has pesto, house-made ricotta, yellow tomatoes and Parmesan (no red sauce).
Among new appetizers, the wood-fired brie sounds promising. It comes topped with Texas berries, candied pecans, and a rosemary and balsamic reduction. And the popular hummus trio (classic, caramelized garlic-truffle and smoked red pepper, $11) has been tweaked a bit with a new recipe that makes it creamier. This used to be the sort of hummus that was spreadable but not very dippable — it’s a welcome upgrade.
There’s also a hefty cheese board ($23), a good thing for a wine bar to have, and a new kale Caesar with “black Russian croutons” ($9).
At brunch, available Saturday and Sunday, you can still get the hummus and the pizzas, but all the entrees change. Meatless choices include Pancho’s rancheros ($11, pretty much the huevos rancheros Winslow’s has always had), a goat-cheese frittata ($12) and avocado toast with scrambled eggs ($10).
Two Tex-Mex places that happen to have female chefs have added to their vegetarian options.
At Enchiladas Ole, Mary Perez is making a dish unlike anything I’ve had in Fort Worth: sweet-potato enchiladas with an avocado cream sauce. (Hat tip to DFW.com contributor Malcolm Mayhew and his invaluable story last month on underappreciated restaurants on Fort Worth’s east side.)
This is not on the printed menu for now, but it’s available every day. In keeping with the ethos of this place (sauces and everything else made from scratch daily, in small batches — with no lard, ever), it has some unexpected ingredients. The sweet-potato filling includes toasted almonds, hemp seeds and butter. The avocado cream sauce, which includes lemongrass(!), cuts the sweetness some, but you’ll want the vegetarian black beans (flecked with corn) and the sautéed summer squashes to help with that.
You could also get this with rice and beans that come with other plates — they’re vegan, even when served alongside carnivore dishes. The regular vegetarian enchiladas here are good, too. But things tend to be on the mild side. Tell your server if you’d like it otherwise.
In the Ridglea area on the west side, Irma Gamez of Mariposa’s Latin Kitchen is doing a new Sunday brunch and has added new vegetarian options to the main menu — because of popular demand, I was told. And vegetarian dishes are now clearly labeled on the menu with the restaurant’s beautiful butterfly logo.
At brunch, there are two big salads, a cheddar-and-veggie quiche ($9) served with potatoes, agave nectar salad or fruit. I asked for the migas ($10) to be made vegetarian, and they were good, though they seemed more like a frittata with some fried tortillas strewn on top.
The lunch/dinner menu added a guacamole-tacos plate ($9.95) and vegetable enchiladas (two or three for $9.59 or $12.59). Available sides include a salad and seasonal grilled vegetables in addition to various varieties of rice and beans (the black beans and the Cuban rice are vegetarian). You can still get the original veggie options: jalapeno-cheddar tamales with chipotle sauce, cheese enchiladas in ancho sauce, black bean tacos and more.
Have a suggestion, a veggie news tip or a question? Send it to Marilyn at firstname.lastname@example.org, or follow her on Twitter, @LonesomeVeg. For more Lonesome Vegetarian columns, visit dfw.com/vegetarian.