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Eats Beat: Old-time stew, prices at original Riscky’s

Beef stew, ham-and-limas and homemade kielbasa at the main Riscky’s.
Beef stew, ham-and-limas and homemade kielbasa at the main Riscky’s. bkennedy@star-telegram.com

When cooler weather arrives, the original Riscky’s Barbeque & Deli is ready.

Other restaurants brew pumpkin coffee. At the 88-year-old former grocery northwest of downtown Fort Worth, fall means homemade chili, ham-and-limas or brisket “Moo Stew.”

If you only know Riscky’s from the remote locations, then you don’t know Riscky’s.

The old grocery is now an antique-filled takeout deli, selling barbecue, chili, beans and stew from 8:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. weekdays and Saturdays.

The prices suit holiday budgets: $3.99 for a bowl of beef stew or ham-and-limas with cornbread, $5.99 for a large.

Riscky’s regulars swear by this location. Sure enough, the stew had more brisket and veggies on a recent weekday. Customers lined up for “butter beans” and ham.

The store is filled with Coke collectibles, typewriters and photos of past beauty queens (“Do Not Touch the Antiques”).

This location also sells a homemade spicy kielbasa along with the company’s familiar barbecued meats, deli meats and sides.

If you miss the long-ago junky Kincaid’s, go see the old Riscky’s.

It’s at 2314 Azle Ave., one block off Texas 183 near Texas 199; 817-624-8662, risckys.com.

The family claims a 1927 opening date, but a nearby Bunker & Riscky grocery opened in 1925 according to Star-Telegram files.

(Different Riscky’s locations vary widely, and only the original has ham-and-limas or homemade kielbasa. The deli-market locations in Benbrook and North Richland Hills serve chili in winter, and some restaurant locations may serve chili or stew.)

Breakfast + more coffee

With the opening of FW Market + Table next week, the West 7th shops will be ready for the next big arrivals.

Dagwoods Fire Grill Tap and Avoca Coffee are both near opening, Avoca at 835 Foch St. and Dagwoods at 843 Foch.

(The name is French — fȯsh.)

Market + Table is chef Kalen Morgenstern’s rethink of the old Tillman’s, with fresh pastas, salads, juices and breakfast daily; 2933 Crockett St.; 817-850-9255, fwmarketandtable.com.

That’ll be $5.41

Also worth a stop, if simply for the prices: Daybreak Cafe & Grill west of downtown Fort Worth.

Simple lunches cost $5.41. Fajitas cost $5.41. Daily grill or Tex-Mex specials? They’re $5.41.

Breakfasts range from $3 to $6 (for steak ranchero). Burritos cost $2-$3. Sandwiches are $2.59-$4. A double cheeseburger combo is $5.

Daybreak opens at 5 a.m. daily and closes at 4 p.m. weekdays and Saturdays, 5 p.m. Sundays; 2720 White Settlement Road, 817-335-0805.

Bud Kennedy: 817-390-7538, bud@star-telegram.com, @EatsBeat. His column appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com.

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