Eats Beat

Gone two years, Mo’s Best Eatery reopens in south Arlington

Mo’s Best Eatery served this burger in Arlington, but it closed in spring 2019..
Mo’s Best Eatery served this burger in Arlington, but it closed in spring 2019..

It took nearly two years, but Mo’s Best Eatery is back.

The small Arlington burger grill and Mediterranean restaurant bounced to Mansfield and back to Arlington again, and owner Mo Zaben bounced into the hospital and out.

Considering Zaben came down with pneumonia and didn’t cook for nearly two years, it is absolutely remarkable that Mo’s reopened in a new Matlock Road location.

First, a word of caution: Mo’s is mobbed.

Burger fans have been lining up and waiting a half-hour or more, so give Zaben a little time to get caught up.

But once the opening crowds thin out, go try the new Mo’s at 4306 Matlock Road and find out what patrons have been talking about the last two years.

The new Mo’s is almost exactly like the old Mo’s, but has a few more tables and a restroom that doesn’t require a trip through the kitchen.

Zaben originally opened in 2013 as a tiny backroad burger grill on Little Road in south Arlington.

Word spread quickly among UT Arlington students about the hand-packed, hormone-free, grass-fed beef burgers served hot and juicy off Zaben’s grill.

A regular burger costs less than $7 with fries or less than $8 with hand-breaded onion rings. (They’re well worth the extra $1.)

Try a Wiley, a bacon cheeseburger with grilled peppers and onions.

Mo’s popular housemade pastrami wasn’t as meltaway tender as on past visits, but all the sub sandwiches remain remarkably better than in most restaurants, with house corned beef, roast beef, steak, turkey, lamb or meatballs.

There’s also a fried chicken sandwich or a dark-meat dinner.

Mo’s beckons with burgers but also shows off a full Mediterranean menu of kebabs, shawarma and house-blend kafta. There’s also a pasta menu and salads, but not pizza (Mo’s shares a shopping center with a chain pizza restaurant).

Commenters on social media last week talked about how Mo’s is running short on staff, organization and occasionally, hamburger meat.

“Out of Philly and pastrami meat,” Mo’s posted one day. On another: “Only three hamburgers left,” or “We are all sold out of everything!!! Had to close early.”

Flatbreads will be added later this year.

Repeating: If Mo’s is mobbed, come back another time. If you stay and service is slow, tell your dining pal it’s all Eats Beat’s fault.

Mo’s Best Eatery is open for lunch and dinner Tuesdays through Sundays (closed Mondays).

It’s on Matlock Road across the street from Fry’s Electronics; 817-617-2211,

Stockyards diners are in the dough

The Love Shack burger grill has found its second calling: as a weekend doughnut shop.

Chef Tim Love’s Back Dough doughnut shop has expanded from Denton to the Stockyards, serving artisan bakery doughnuts weekends from 8 a.m. until 11.

Back Dough is sort of a weekend pop-up for the extreme-doughnut fan. The flavors last weekend were lemon-filled, chocolate-filled or — this needs explanation — chili and cheese.

The White Elephant Saloon next door also serves homemade chili daily at lunch and again in the evening, so Back Dough is showcasing it. (If a chili doughnut sounds odd, think of it simply as chili in a very small bread bowl.)

The doughtnuts are sold cash-only, whenever a neon sign is lit. (Instead of out the back “dough” door, the Fort Worth location sells them from a front counter.)

The Love Shack also is part of Love’s February promotion. If you eat a burger at all four local Love restaurants — also counting Lonesome Dove Western Bistro, where they’re only served at lunch Fridays and Saturdays, plus Queenies Steakhouse in Denton and the Woodshed Smokehouse in west Fort Worth — you can post photos and comments about all four on social media and win a $100 gift card.

The Love Shack is at 110 E. Exchange Ave.; 817-740-8812.

Biscuits ready at Fixe Southern

The newest restaurant in the Shops at Clearfork is off to a fast start.

Fixe Southern House had a full dining room Saturday for its Southern fine-dining, served in an atmosphere that feels like a prime steakhouse,.

Whatever else you order, don’t miss the grits — served three ways, with a kale-and-eggs version to go with shrimp-and-grits or quai-and-grits.

If you’re not in the mood for that, try a big platter of blackened snapper, catfish, honey-fried chicken or lobster-crawfish potpie, or a big bone-in rib-eye or pork roast.

The “triple fat” biscuits are served with whipped Steen’s butter. There’s also a pear-and-Gouda salad with jalapeño-Green Goddess dressing.

Fixe is open only at dinner for now, with Sunday brunch coming soon; 5282 Marathon Ave., 682-707-3965,

Bud Kennedy: 817-390-7538, @EatsBeat.