Eats Beat

If you miss Dallas’ The Palm steakhouse, sail an hour south to the Harbor Inn

The view from tableside at the Harbor Inn Restaurant & Club, 1 hour south of Dallas on Richland-Chambers Reservoir near Corsicana.
The view from tableside at the Harbor Inn Restaurant & Club, 1 hour south of Dallas on Richland-Chambers Reservoir near Corsicana. bud@star-telegram.com

If you miss The Palm, a posh downtown Dallas steakhouse that closed in June, drive an hour south.

The lakeside setting and casual sailing-set crowd are far from downtown’s flash and glitz. But the Harbor Inn Restaurant & Club 15 miles east of Corsicana has a former Palm chef, and a smidgen of Palm flavor.

“All my steaks are cooked the way I used to cook at the Palm,” said Greek-born chef Andreas Kotsifos, who is in his third year at Harbor Inn — maybe the best lakefront restaurant in the Dallas-Fort Worth region.

The sauteed mushrooms, chicken Parmesan and lobster bisque will seem familiar, Kotsifos said. The spicy marinara served with the calamari and other dishes is the same as at the Palm, he said.

Kotsifos also was a chef at the still-open Perry’s Steakhouse in Dallas before taking over the restaurant at Northshore Harbor on Richland-Chambers Reservoir, a water-supply lake owned by the Fort Worth-based Tarrant Regional Water District.

“We still see a lot of the same people,” he said: “They come down for dinner, or they stop when they’re traveling from Dallas-Fort Worth to Houston. And we draw from a wide area around here, over into East Texas.”

Harbor Inn serves a typical steakhouse menu led by a blue-cheese-crusted filet mignon ($38) or weekend prime rib ($31).

Along with the expected lakefront dishes such as fried catfish or panko shrimp, the menu also includes a maple-chipotle pork chop ($20), crab legs, pastas and salads.

Side dishes include familiar steakhouse favorites such as au gratin potatoes, ratatouille, creamed spinach, green beans almandine and Caesar, wedge or house salads with walnuts, goat cheese and a champagne-tarragon vinaigrette.

Kotsifos’ summer specials include a crab-shrimp boil or a whole snapper.

Harbor Inn Restaurant & Club is open at 4 p.m. every night for dinner.

Lunch or brunch is at 11 a.m. Friday through Sunday only; 10000 Spur 294, between Corsicana and Eureka, 903-874-7000, harborinntexas.com.

(It’s an easy drive on U.S. 287, particularly from Mansfield or south Arlington.)

Follow that taco: Salsa Limón rolls across the river

The newest Salsa Limón has a familiar look.

The busy Fort Worth taqueria will gradually reopen its 1940s retro chrome diner location beginning late next week, with a full grand opening scheduled for mid-September.

The former Cultural District location — “Distrito” — closed two years ago to make way for other construction. But the entire diner has been moved intact from University Drive to its new home at 5012 White Settlement Road in what is now called the River District near Roberts Cut Off Road.

(That’s three blocks from the forthcoming Heim BBQ on the River location, the second for Fort Worth’s popular craft barbecue restaurant.)

Salsa Limón’s other locations are open for breakfast through dinner at 550 Throckmorton St., downtown, 3005 S. University Drive and 411 N. Akard St. in Dallas, plus a lunch-and-dinner location at 4200 South Freeway inside the La Gran Plaza mall.

Not so fast on that new Billy’s Oak Acres

That new Billy’s Oak Acres BBQ will open in time for football season, but not for the opening games.

Pitmaster Billy Woodrich is remodeling an old west Fort Worth sports bar-disco into a new Billy’s serving his barbecue plus steaks and Southwestern grill dishes.

He’s taking time out for a knee repair and now expects to open the new Billy’s in mid-September. Look for it at 7709 Camp Bowie Blvd. West.

His current location is open at 11 a.m. daily except Mondays for now, closing early some evenings if the barbecue runs out.

When the new Billy’s opens, the original location will be open Thursdays through Sundays at 1620 N. Las Vegas Trail; 817-367-2200, billystxbbq.com.

Restaurant Week; $20 lunches, $39-$49 dinners

Reminder: This is the only full week of DFW Restaurant Week $20, $39 and $49 specials, with 20 percent of each dinner check donated to the Lena Pope children’s charity in Fort Worth or to the North Texas Food Bank in Dallas.

Many restaurants will extend specials through Aug. 20 or Aug. 26. The list includes 15 steakhouse and fine-dining restaurants in Fort Worth and 12 in Arlington, Colleyville, Grapevine or Southlake.

Call your favorite and ask if there’s a Restaurant Week special, or find the list and some of the special menus at dfwrestaurantweek.com.

Bud Kennedy: 817-390-7538, @EatsBeat. His column appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com.

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