Eats Beat

A pop-up Riscky’s BBQ dinner? It’s a new generation at an old Fort Worth favorite

Riscky’s combo dinner: pork ribs, beef ribs and brisket.
Riscky’s combo dinner: pork ribs, beef ribs and brisket. Star-Telegram

The Riscky family has 90 years of Fort Worth barbecue tradition.

Joe Riscky, the fourth-generation pitmaster, is bidding to earn more statewide attention.

Riscky will smoke special prime brisket for a craft barbecue pop-up dinner June 29, the first in a series of dinners to show Riscky’s BBQ can compete with the best.

“We’ve been here so long, people take us for granted,” said Riscky, 41, the great-grandson of early north side grocery owner Joe Riscky.

“When you have a lot of locations, your goal is consistency. But for a one-time event like this, we can pull out all the stops and show our craft.”

The first Joe Riscky’s Backyard BBQ Pop-Up is already sold out at $35. He’ll serve it at Magdalena’s, a dinner facility and catering hall on Grand Avenue known for chef Juan Rodriguez’s pop-up events.

Riscky will serve smoked-chicken pops as an appetizer, with a dinner of oak-smoked brisket and Niman Ranch pork ribs, green-chile hominy, Riscky’s signature limas with smoked ham and a chuckwagon Dutch oven peach cobbler.

“People don’t know what we can do,” he said. He recently smoked wagyu beef ribs for a barbecue event in Taylor, one of Texas’ legendary barbecue capitals.

Diners looking for craft flavor at Riscky’s should look to the brisket, the limas-and-ham or the beef stew, he said.

(He didn’t say this, but I always recommend the flagship northwest Fort Worth location.)

To sign up for future Joe Riscky dinners, email joerisckybbq@gmail.com.

Riscky’s original flagship opens 8:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily except Sundays. It’s at 2314 Azle Ave. (off Texas 183 near Texas 199), 817-624-8662, risckys.com.

Riscky’s also operates restaurants in Stockyards Station, in Sundance Square and in Ridglea, along with the historic Stockyards Riscky’s Steakhouse, Trail Boss Burgers in the Stockyards and take-out delis in Benbrook and North Richland Hills.

A homespun BBQ stand

Three miles west of Riscky’s, where Azle Avenue crosses Loop 820, Bodeen’s BBQ is an interesting new take-out shop.

Bodeen’s barbecue comes with an above-average smoky ring and flavor, and an excellent sauce. The portions aren’t large, but diners recommend the sandwiches and baked potatoes.

Owner Lisa Chavez is originally from New Mexico and has catered the balloon festival there and other special events. She’s always wanted to open a restaurant on the little corner where Azle Avenue crosses Roberts Cut Off Road and Loop 820, she said.

The recipes are her own: “I’m not a fan of vinegary sauces,” she said. “I like it on the sweet side. I come in before everybody else and make the sauce. The beans, the sides, the desserts — they’re all homemade.”

She’s adding breakfast next month, with New Mexico green chiles.

Dress casual. The only seating is at picnic tables.

Bodeen’s is open for lunch and dinner daily except Sunday; 5913 Azle Ave., 682-708-7151, facebook.com/BodeensQ.

Brunch is served

After an extended wait, Bread Winners Cafe & Bakery has opened in Fort Worth’s University Park Village.

It’s only a soft opening for now, which I assume refers to the fresh cakes and pies.

The Dallas Bread Winners is known for Sunday brunch, but also remember it for a casual dinner. It’s open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily; 817-984-8710, breadwinnerscafe.com.

An Eatzi’s deal

If you’re only going to Eatzi’s Market & Bakery for a quick snack, you’re missing out.

Fort Worth patrons are learning what other Eatzi’s customers already knew: Eatzi’s “Red Dot Sale” offers select packaged foods two-for-one nightly from 9 p.m. to closing at 10 p.m.

One night this week, that meant two salmon Caesar salads for about $13, or two large helpings of soup or chili for about $6-$7.

The new Eatzi’s opens for breakfast at 7 a.m. daily and serves until 10 p.m.; 1540 S. University Drive, 817-945-9095, eatzis.com.

A peachy summer

Parker County peach custard is in season at Curly’s Frozen Custard, 4017 Camp Bowie Blvd.

Proceed accordingly. (I recommend mixing in blueberries.)

Melt Ice Creams also has introduced a new “Peachy Keen” flavor combining peach ice cream with oat streusel crumbles.

Melt is at 1201 W. Magnolia Ave.; 817-886-8365, melticecreams.com.

Reata Restaurant has been offering a peach cobbler this week. (Tipsters say to try it with the cinnamon ice cream.)

Bud Kennedy: 817-390-7538, @EatsBeat. His column appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com.

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