Eats Beat

New restaurants M Bistro, Waters gear up for first Easter Sunday crowds

Dessert Belgian waffles with TX Blended Whiskey-caramel sauce at M Bistro in Montgomery Plaza.
Dessert Belgian waffles with TX Blended Whiskey-caramel sauce at M Bistro in Montgomery Plaza. bud@star-telegram.com

April is a great month to open a restaurant, and also a dangerous month.

Easter lunch crowds can swamp a rookie staff, and there’s not much time to recover before the Main Street Fort Worth Arts Festival, Mayfest and Mother’s Day.

At the brand-new M Bistro in Montgomery Plaza, owner Steve Mitchell will offer his regular menu on Easter with a couple of extras. But he’ll wait until the following Sunday to add a separate brunch menu.

M Bistro is the newest Mitchell effort, reflecting his past work at Lucile’s (note the lobster bisque) and recent career at The Harbor on Possum Kingdom Lake.

Entreés range from a chicken with white-wine-artichoke-mushroom sauce to spicy lobster, bacon-wrapped scallops or a filet with spinach-brie mashed potatoes (all $20-$36).

The choice of five salads includes a house salad with cranberry cheese and candied pecans.

Lunches include a $10.50 Akaushi burger, chicken sandwiches, a Reuben hoagie and a much-praised three-cheese grilled-cheese sandwich with brie, provolone, Texas goat cheese and bacon.

The desserts change regularly, but one recent day the choices included blackberry cobbler or an inspired plate of Belgian waffles with TX Blended Whiskey caramel sauce.

M Bistro is open for lunch and dinner daily at 2600 W. Seventh St. (it’s actually closer to West Sixth Street); 817-338-0066, facebook.com/MbistroFortWorth.

▪ Restaurants with good Easter availability at midweek included most prime steakhouses such as Mercury Chop House in downtown Fort Worth; the new Piattello Italian Kitchen in southwest Fort Worth; the new Sai Fine Asian Bistro in Colleyville; and Redrock Canyon Grill or Truluck’s Seafood Steak & Crab in Southlake.

For more Easter suggestions, see star-telegram.com/entertainment.

Steady waters

At Waters Restaurant, chef Anthony Felli also said he’s sticking to the regular menu for Easter.

That is, if there’s anything “regular” about a prime seafood restaurant serving Alaskan halibut, yellowfin tuna, Eastern Seaboard oysters in “flights” or fresh stone crab claws kept temperature-controlled from the Channel Islands off California.

“It’s a very celebratory season, when we get to meet a lot of families,” Felli said. “And we’re a seafood restaurant, so we have lots of options for people who are particular about observing the [Leneten] season.”

Waters is a “new” old restaurant, renewing the seafood tradition that executive Jon Bonnell started years ago on Crockett Street.

It’s open for lunch and dinner daily; 301 Main St., 817-984-1110, waterstexas.com.

Currying f(l)avor

Dallas’ popular Mughlai Fine Indian Cuisine restaurant is open in Southlake.

That means Southlake has a new daily lunch buffet haven.

Mughlai is arguably DFW’s best Indian restaurant, with owners Javeed and Sonia Khan bringing the tradition begun by Sonia’s father, Satish Mehtani, at his restaurants in New Jersey.

Mughlai might serve one of the best-executed lunch buffets ever. On a visit this week, the mostly chicken and vegetable dishes were fresh and full of spicy flavor, with juicy tandoori chicken and constantly refreshed naan.

This was no routine paper-plate buffet. Mughlai offered crispy vegetable pakora, spicy vegetable biryani (rice), even-spicier paneer jalfrezi and a stewed chicken rogan josh.

It’s a great way to sample items off the regular menu, which offers 11 tandoori dishes, shrimp, salmon, chicken, nine lamb or goat dishes and more than 15 vegetable entrees.

The former sports grill (a Red Dog Right) has been converted to a white-tablecloth restaurant with red curtains and rich paneling.

The lunch buffet costs $14.50, or $16.50 weekends. Mughlai is open for lunch and dinner daily; 3311 Texas 114 East (next to Kirby’s), 817-251-0663, mughlaidallas.com

Bud Kennedy: 817-390-7538, bud@star-telegram.com, @EatsBeat. His column appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com.

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