Food & Drink

Eats Beat: In north Tarrant County, new Cajun, tacos and tapas

Inside Loop 820, we brag about chef-driven restaurants, gastropubs and locally sourced menus.

North of the loop, everybody’s excited about the new Razzoo’s Cajun Cafe.

That’s not a slam. The new Razzoo’s in Alliance Town Center was packed the other night, and most of the crowd seemed to be enjoying the Louisiana cooking as much as the hurricane punch.

“We’re more of a family restaurant here, and this is a perfect location,” Razzoo’s executive Jeff Powell said this week.

“We’re doing smaller restaurants now, not monsters — we’re more food-based,” Powell said, referring to the old, clubby Bedford location that was closed in favor of Alliance.

The Cajun combo skillet and chicken Tchoupitoulas remain top sellers, he said.

Considering the proliferation of $14 hamburgers and $28 fish platters in Fort Worth lately, I almost did a double-take at the price tag on Chef Bubba’s Special: jalapeño fried catfish for $9.49.

I expected one fillet. The platter came with three, and substitutions of dirty rice and red beans. The bread pudding dessert was as irresistible as ever.

More than 20 years after opening in Richardson and Fort Worth, Razzoo’s still has a year-round Mardi Gras spirit. (If the flavors are familiar in north Tarrant County, it’s because the Razzoo’s founding chef in 1991, Scott Marks, now runs his own Boo-Ray’s restaurants.)

The new Razzoo’s is open daily for lunch and dinner at 2950 Texas Sage Trail, facing Heritage Trace Parkway east of Interstate 35W; 817-750-0011,

• So-Cal Tacos has parked the truck.

The rolling tacos and burritos have a new storefront home on Hall Johnson Road in Grapevine, in a former pizzeria.

So-Cal Tacos has a bustling daily business, but the best time to beat the crowd is mornings, for burritos or tacos with egg, cheese and chorizo, habanero sausage, bacon or ham. It all comes with So-Cal’s table hot sauce, salsas and fresh pico. (And maybe a morning margarita.)

So-Cal is open at 7 a.m. weekdays, 8 a.m. Saturdays; 2140 Hall Johnson Road, 682-223-1316,

Bacon’s Bistro & Cafe, known for fluffy breakfast biscuits, shifted across Texas 26 to 714 Grapevine Highway in Hurst.

The new location gives owners Adam Daily and Eva Burrull-Daily more room for their huge weekend crowds, but also a better setting for Eva’s occasional Pilar’s Kitchen-catered “Night in Spain” tapas dinners.

The next Spanish dinner is Valentine’s night. Bacon’s is open daily for breakfast and lunch; 817-514-6301,