Restaurant news for March

Vegetable crudite with avocado hummus at Paris 7th, a Saint-Emilion spinoff.
Vegetable crudite with avocado hummus at Paris 7th, a Saint-Emilion spinoff. rhailey@star-telegram.com

Paris two ways

Saint-Emilion is not moving — at least not completely. When owner Bernard Tronche opens his new concept Paris 7th this month, just down the street in the former Le Cep space, his French fine dining institution — which commemorates 33 years this month — will stay put. What will move is much of the Saint-Emilion menu, because Tronche and his executive chef, Kobi Perdue, will have loads more room to play. Expect all of the service pieces Tronche has always wanted, from cheese carts all the way down to new escargot forks. Tronche’s wife, Karin Kelly, says the new space will give her husband more flexibility. “He enjoys the additions in service,” she says. “There are not many of those places left. It’s a very casual world.” When Paris 7th opens, Saint-Emilion will close briefly for some minor renovations, but regulars can expect to enjoy a “slightly more casual” French bistro space. Paris 7th, 3324 W. Seventh St., Fort Worth; Saint-Emilion, 3617 W. Seventh St., Fort Worth, 817-737-2781, www.saint-emilionrestaurant.com

A Taste of the Wharf

INDULGE The Wharf 03
Shrimp and crab cake appetizer at The Wharf Steak and Seafood, which opened March 25 in Roanoke. Joyce Marshall Star-Telegram archives

Erin Miller took a trip to Ireland last year seeking inspiration for her new seafood-inspired restaurant. She visited her great-great-grandfather’s tobacco shop, which was located on a wharf. After months of planning and a brand- new build-out, The Wharf Steak & Seafood opens this month in the heart of red-hot Roanoke. The fourth-generation chef says recipes date back to her Irish family roots and will include dishes like salmon roulade, Maryland crab cakes and the signature steaks she became known for at Texas Bleu in Keller. Patrons will be able to enjoy a full bar (with plenty of Irish beer and Irish-inspired cocktails) in a sleek space designed by Pallas Architectural Woodworks. In a throwback to prime steak and seafood houses of the past, Miller also hopes to install a live lobster tank. 310 S. Oak St., Roanoke. Facebook: The Wharf Steak and Seafood

Brunch Fixe

Brioche french toast at Fixe Southern House. The Fort Worth location is scheduled to launch brunch service in March. Logan Crable

When Austin-based Fixe Southern House finally opened its Fort Worth rendition in the Shops at Clearfork in late January, patrons salivated for the restaurant’s signature butter-brushed biscuits. Biscuits at dinner? A resounding “yes” as the pillowy perfections are quite popular as a starter. Imagine the possibilities when Fixe launches brunch service in time for Easter Sunday. Sneak peeks of the menu include brioche French toast with honey-foie gras butter, and Southern grits with Texas quail, pickled pears, pecan granola and barbecue consomme. Then there are the brunch drinks, which range from blackberry mimosas to a barbecue bacon bloody mary with Ketel One vodka. Make reservations early. 5282 Marathon Ave., Fort Worth, 682-707-3965, www.fixesouthernhouse.com

French retreat in Richland Hills

Indulge Quixote 01
Quixote French pastries (clockwise from left): Tarte dacquoise, petit gateaux, baba au rhum (center), Religieuse, ParisBrest, lemon tarte, assorted macarons Ross Hailey rhailey@star-telegram.com

In a pink brick house with black and pink window awnings in Richland Hills, something delicious is happening. Husband-and-wife duo Roland and Sayda Rapalo are serving up sweet and savory French pastries, coffee and, soon, gelato, at their Quixote Bakery Cafe, which opened quietly this winter. Word is spreading and crowds are now flocking for pain au chocolat, canele de Bordeaux, buttery croissants and creamy éclairs. Sayda, a schoolteacher who was trained in France at a pastry school, does the baking while Roland works the front of the house. Go early as pastries sometimes sell out, and as they do in France, order a cup a coffee and sit and stay awhile. 7272 Glenview Drive, Richland Hills, 682-626-5129, Facebook:Quixote Bakery Cafe

What’s new at Blue

blue sushi
Poke bowl at Blue Sushi Courtesy photo

Move over, California rolls. Blue Sushi Sake Grill is giving Fort Worth a vibrant taste of the tropics with the launch of new menu items this spring. Highlights include a sockeye salmon poke bowl, tossed with sesame dressing, sweet onions and avocado, and the thinly sliced truffle salmon sashimi that’s drizzled with hot sesame oil. There’s also a lengthy list of new vegan and vegetarian items, including crispy Brussels sprouts with creamy lemon miso sauce and toasted cashews, and the Eden roll with sweet potato and edamame hummus. The updated menu is available now, and don’t forget happy hour Monday through Saturday from 3 to 6:30 p.m. and Sunday from noon to 8 p.m. 3131 West Seventh Street, Fort Worth,817-332-2583, www.bluesushisakegrill.com

A ‘Knead’ for doughnuts

Indulge Kneady Donuts
Oreo Crush, Mary Poppins (pop rocks), Nutella popcorn and Butterfinger doughnutes from Kneady Donuts, scheduled to open in late March in Fort Worth Ross Hailey rhailey@star-telegram.com

Add Kneady Doughnuts, a gourmet doughnut shop set to be open during late-night hours, to the slowly growing list of Race Street dining destinations. “I’m excited to be in the beginning stages of the next cool, upcoming neighborhood,” says Tara McCartney, a Culinary School of Fort Worth graduate and partner in the business. Taking over a former burger joint just steps away from Gypsy Scoops and Tributary Cafe, the shop will serve “mom-and-pop” staples like glazed and blueberry doughnuts along with rotating varieties like hot grilled French toast. Having worked in the Fort Worth food and beverage industry for a bit, McCartney also plans to use her relationships to host weeknight chef-driven pop-up dinners. Kneady Doughnuts hopes for a soft opening March 31 with a schedule of 6 a.m. to 1 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Expect late-night hours Friday and Saturday along with some evening hours throughout the week. 2929 Race St., Fort Worth, Facebook: @KneadyDoughnutsFTW

Killer ramen

Piranha Killer Ramen 08
Tonkotsu ramen, left, and kimchi ramen at Piranha Killer Ramen, newly opened in Arlington Ross Hailey rhailey@star-telegram.com

Kenzo Tran is familiar with change. The owner of Piranha Killer Sushi raised the sushi bar in Fort Worth, so to speak, when he created cool combinations like wasabi-crusted salmon and shrimp tempura with ginger-cream and fresh mango, more than a decade before anyone else. Then he opened Pho District, elevating the traditional Vietnamese noodle soup in a comfortable setting well-suited for west Fort Worth. Now his popular Arlington Highlands sushi location has morphed into Piranha Killer Ramen, Tran’s version of a Japanese ramen shop. Sushi and sashimi are still on the menu, as are a half-dozen types of ramen soup, including rich tonkotsu, a spicy miso version, and even lobster ramen with fried shallots and leeks. Interesting small plates include fried octopus balls and foie gras pork rinds. Tran is planning to open a Fort Worth location of his Wabi House in the near south side next year. 309 Curtis Mathes Way, Arlington, 682-410-0504, Facebook:Piranha Killer Ramen

Angelo’s guardian angel

Indulge Angelos 1
Jason George of Angelo’s Bar-B-Que, which will celebrate its 60th anniversary in March in Fort Worth

Jason George says he was probably 8 or 9 ears old when he first started working at his grandfather’s barbecue restaurant, washing dishes and running food out to tables. Little did he know that Angelo’s Bar-B-Que would become a Texas barbecue institution and that he had a lifelong career ahead of him. After his father Skeet George passed away unexpectedly from heart-surgery complications just before Christmas, the third-generation proprietor and pit-master is now the sole face of the beloved establishment, which commemorates 60 years this month on St. Patrick’s Day. The outpouring of love from customers was big, as Skeet was a well-known fixture in the restaurant who greeted and thanked everyone who crossed his path, and always with a smile. But while Skeet was at the restaurant daily, Jason has been smoking the barbecue for years now. “They had been teaching me for years prior, all the secrets,” Jason says of his father and grandfather. “And I’ve been doing it ever since.” Angelo’s spice recipe is still the same as it was when it opened in 1958, Jason says. “But we’ve added some new stuff over the years,” he adds, like brisket tacos, smoked mac and cheese, and stuffed baked potatoes. For the restaurant’s 60th, patrons can expect live bagpipe music, giveaways and memorabilia, along with big crowds, as the anniversary is popular every year. As far as Skeet’s favorite table by the bar, it’s still there, along with his roundtable of buddies that always sat with him. 2533 White Settlement Road, Fort Worth, 817-332-0357, www.angelosbbq.com.


Clay Pigeon Food & Drink will host its first Easter brunch this year on April 1. Reservations for the four-course menu are available from 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and are $50-plus per person. Hand-crafted brunch cocktails will also be available along with a menu just for kids. 2731 White Settlement Road, Fort Worth, 817-882-8065,www.claypigeondf.com.

Central Market Fort Worth has launched Central Market Curbside, the company’s first-ever quick and convenient way to pick up groceries without customers leaving their vehicle. Customers can place their orders at centralmarket.com/shop, schedule a pickup time (with at least four hours’ notice) and receive their items in a specially designated area on the east side of the store. No minimum fee required and the pickup fee is $4.95 in addition to a personal shopping fee of 3 percent. 4651 West Freeway, Fort Worth,817-989-4700, www.centralmarket.com.

Food news writer Celestina Blok (@celestinafw) has covered restaurant news for Indulge since 2011. She also contributes to CultureMap Fort Worth and Fort Worth magazine.