Food & Drink

May 8, 2014

Eats Beat: Down-home lunch and pie for Mom

Simple plate-lunch cafes work hard to serve Sunday lunches at low prices every week. And there’s dessert.

Mom might not want a $50 brunch.

If she’s just looking for an old-fashioned plate lunch and dessert for about $15, here are some good choices any Sunday:

• The Old West Cafes in Bedford, Grapevine and Denton County offer big pancake or omelet breakfasts and home-cooking lunches daily until 2 p.m.

Watch for a new Old West in Arlington. The Bedford location is at 2900 Texas 121, 817-354-8000, and Grapevine is at 600 W. Northwest Highway, 817-442-9378,

• The Dixie House Cafes in Fort Worth and Saginaw are open Sundays until 3 p.m., serving Theresa Simon’s chicken-fried chicken, plate lunches and salads with cloverleaf rolls, plus about 10 cakes and pies.

Sunday’s desserts usually include caramel-coconut-cream-cheese “heavenly” cake. The busiest location is at 6200 E. Lancaster Ave. (Texas 180 at Loop 820), 817-451-6180, with other Dixies on South Hulen Street, East Belknap Street and Blue Mound Road. (A Bedford location will reopen later this year.)

•  West Side Cafe in Fort Worth is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily and often has a line for home-cooking plates, fresh vegetables and desserts; 7950 Camp Bowie Blvd. West, 817-560-1996.

• Vance Godbey’s Restaurant, in its 59th year serving an old-fashioned country-style buffet in a historic ranch house, opens every Sunday. The Mother’s Day buffet is from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., $15.99; 8601 Jacksboro Highway, Lakeside, 817-237-2218.

• Arlington’s reopened Candlelite Inn and historic Arlington Steak House will be open, along with mainstay Babe’s Chicken Dinner House. For an upscale brunch, Cacharel Restaurant still has tables available.

In Fort Worth, try Ferré, Mercury Chophouse or Ruth’s Chris.

An Arlington hideaway

It was a surprise to many when Restaurant506 at the Sanford House was named one of the 100 best brunches in the U.S., but not to regulars of this charming downtown Arlington lunchroom inside a boutique hotel.

Lunch one day this week included the signature crab cakes, a feta-pear-walnut salad in a cider vinaigrette and a pineapple upside-down bread pudding.

Restaurant506 is open only for lunch Wednesdays and Sundays, and for both lunch and dinner Thursdays through Saturdays. A few really lucky diners may get a late table for the $49 Mother’s Day brunch; 506 N. Center St., 817-801-5541,

From Magnolia to New York

If you didn’t get into Ellerbe Fine Foods for chef Molly McCook’s Mother’s Day shrimp-and-grits, try another night soon.

She’s preparing for her June 9 stint at the James Beard House in New York, cooking a dinner billed as “ Louisiana heirloom.”

She’ll bring some of the items back for her summer menu at Ellerbe, 1501 W. Magnolia Ave.,

Listen to her talk about it on this week’s Eats Beat podcast at

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