Food & Drink

December 5, 2013

Eats Beat: More than beer at the Bearded Lady

Magnolia pub has grub, but be patient; also, new openings and Christmas reminders for a busy December.

The Bearded Lady had better be careful.

If the food stays this good, customers will mistake it for a restaurant.

Right now, it’s a craft beer bar with good pub grub in an old Seventh Avenue house.

Run by veteran bartenders, it’s mostly for beer. You can tell.

Tables are set up for drinkers, not with salt and pepper or menus. The server will bring your food order, but first she might have to run ales to five tables.

Despite all that, the Bearded Lady is building a reputation for its limited but imaginative menu and laid-back Sunday brunch.

The daily menu starts with a smoked salmon-pecan salad in lemon vinaigrette ($11) and features sandwiches or the Bearded L.U.S.T. burger, stuffed with feta and roasted poblano ($11).

Sides include bacon macaroni and cheese. The menu also has small plates such as tamarind-beer “pork wings” ($9) and a bacon-wrapped, pepper-and-cheese-stuffed quail ($17).

At Sunday brunch, there’s a blueberry-cornmeal pancake platter and a poblano-chorizo frittata, and a sausage-beef breakfast burger with red currant-jalapeño jelly.

The “Elvis” sandwich has bacon, a fried egg, peanut butter and banana ($12). Much of the Sunday menu is devoted to drinks such as a peach-mint sangria or a Bloody Mary with pickled asparagus.

Generally, the Lady is worth a try, but bring along plenty of patience for a new pub enjoying unexpectedly broad success.

It’s at 1229 Seventh Ave., on the corner at West Magnolia Avenue, 817-349-9832.

• Sera Dining & Wine, having success with a Basque family-style dinner on Sundays, will move it to Tuesday next week and serve an appetizer and a choice of two paellas for $35.

Sera, by former Sapristi! sous chef Brandon Hudson, is the first of several new, chef-driven Fort Worth restaurants. It’s open Tuesdays through Saturdays for dinner; 2418 Forest Park Blvd., 817-927-7372,

Still to come: chef David McMillan’s Bird Cafe, next week downtown; Marcus Paslay’s Clay Pigeon Food & Drink, before Christmas on White Settlement Road; and former Bolsa chef Jeff HarrisAF+B, in January on Crockett Street.

Also, Il Cane Rosso pizzeria opens in January on West Magnolia Avenue.

• If you missed out on Thanksgiving reservations, don’t miss Christmas.

Cast Iron at the Omni Fort Worth has times available for a buffet including breakfasts, salads, venison or turkey chili plus garlic roast beef, smoked corvina, chicken-poblano sausage and beef brisket with jalapeño-beer sauce.

Desserts include a fig-pear bread pudding or pumpkin-pecan ice cream; $51, 817-350-4106,

Also open Christmas: Mercury Chophouse and Vance Godbey’s in Fort Worth and both Buca di Beppo and Copeland’s of New Orleans in Southlake.

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