The past several years of drought combined with this winter’s cold have left North Texas lawns languishing and in need of special attention. But your steps to corrective care need to happen in sequence, so I thought this might be a good place to list them and arrange them in rough chronological order.
The sun will hit the soil surface, warming it more quickly. New green blades will show up more visibly, giving the appearance of faster greening. Use the clippings in the compost pile or as mulch beneath shrubs in your landscape. Do not send them to the landfill.
Apply the granules this weekend, and water moderately to spread them across the soil surface. You get no second chance on their control. Prevent them or live with them.
It’s best to make the application several days after you mow and to wait several more days before mowing again. Be patient — it takes broadleafed weedkillers 10 to 15 days to do their job.
The peat creates a highly acidic layer at the soil surface, and that impedes development of the disease much better than any fungicide. Results are quick and significant, but again, be certain that TARR is involved before you go to this expense and trouble.
Do not attempt to use Bermuda seed to overseed established turf. (It is too small and cannot compete.) And, if the bare areas are primarily near shade trees, new grass may suffer the same fate as the grass that was there before. Even St. Augustine, our most shade-tolerant grass, needs five or six hours of direct sunlight daily to grow vigorously.
And that gets you into mid-summer’s lawn-care program. Lots of things can happen between now and then, so we’ll not project any further at this point. Hopefully we’ll all be enjoying great turf and ample rainfall by then.