April 23, 2013

Eats Beat: Campisi's, the new shape of FW pizza

The Dallas-based classic has modern toppings, plus pasta and salads.

Rants, raves, reviews and resources for Dallas-Fort Worth parents

Campisi's is as old as its 1946 Mockingbird Lane roots at the former Egyptian Lounge.

But it's also as new as the specialty pizza menu at the now-open Fort Worth location.

Campisi's is known for its own style of rectangular, thin-crust Sicilian pizzas with meticulously diced and chopped toppings, a completely different style and flavor from others.

But the Campisi's menu has kept up with newer pizza restaurants.

The top-selling pizza in suburban locations is the Cali with grilled chicken, artichokes and ranch sauce, David Campisi said on opening day in Ridglea this week.

Another new favorite: a barbecued chicken pizza with red onions, tomatoes and provolone.

Other Campisi specialties ($11-$21) include a muffuletta with salami, bacon and olive spread; a chicken-spinach alfredo pizza; and an "all the way" with sausage, Campisi's signature diced salami, mushrooms, green peppers and onions.

The Fort Worth restaurant also offers the family's usual pastas and combination platters (about $10 at lunch, $12-$13 at dinner), crab claws, Italian-style sirloin steaks, and veal or chicken dishes.

A Tuscan salad (about $8-$9) with tomatoes, cucumbers and artichoke hearts was as big as a dictionary. Other salads include the house variety with Italian dressing, peperoncinis and Romano cheese, a Romano-crusted chicken salad, a chopped and a Greek.

Important note: For early lunch diners or take-out diners, Campisi's opens at 10 a.m. daily.

It's at 6150 Camp Bowie Blvd., on the corner at Westridge Avenue in the Ridglea Village shopping center near La Madeleine French Bakery & Cafe and Little Lilly Sushi; 817-916-4561;

(Ridglea Village dates back to 1946. Just like Campisi's.)

Just before Campisi's opens, another Dallas transplant in Fort Worth closed.

Patrizio closed its Fort Worth store but keeps the larger Patrizio Osteria in Southlake; 1281 E. Texas 114, 817-251-8798,

Six of our best chefs will star Thursday at the Granbury Wine Walk.

The big name is Dallas' Tiffany Derry, serving her Top Chef pork buns.

But the better-known name in Granbury might be Chris Garcia of Del Norte Tacos, a first-rate Tex-Mex restaurant and grill in Godley. He's serving grilled shrimp with citrus salad.

More standouts: Molly McCook of Ellerbe, serving braised brisket; Lou Lambert of Dutch's in Fort Worth and Lambert's in Austin (bock-braised short ribs with fennel salsa verde); Eric Hunter of Fire Oak Grill in Weatherford (smoked pork belly confit); and Kevin Martinez of Tokyo Cafe in Fort Worth (sake-poached salmon).

Tickets are $100 and benefit Mission Granbury and Preserve Granbury; 817-579-1518,

Bud Kennedy's Eats Beat appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in 817-390-7538

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Twitter: @EatsBeat

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