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Eats beat: Magnolia is blooming as a lunch destination

02/19/2013 1:37 PM

02/20/2013 9:02 AM

Fort Worth's newest gourmet grocery store is more gourmet than grocery.

But the corner deli has something West Magnolia Avenue spots have mostly lacked: long hours.

Ryan's Fine Grocer & Delicatessen -- like nearby Magnolia Cheese Company -- is open all day weekdays and Saturdays, and Sundays until 6 p.m.

If you've ever tried to find an off-hours lunch on Magnolia, you know how frustrating it's been. Some restaurants close by midafternoon. Others don't open until nightfall.

Ryan's and Magnolia Cheese provide two reliable stops for a sandwich and salad anytime, including Sunday afternoons.

I've written about Magnolia Cheese, the new gourmet-cheese shop on the corner at Fifth Avenue.

Ryan's doesn't have the same flashy style or presentation, but it sells a choice of 10 sandwiches, eight salads and hometown Avoca coffees in a new grocery on the corner at Lipscomb Street.

Ryan's basic sandwiches have built a reputation: tuna or chicken salad with feta on toasted brioche with a generous house salad ($10).

Other sandwiches include prosciutto-and-mozzarella, a house Reuben, a turkey-chicken-bacon club or smoked salmon, $10-$14.

A house salad with white balsamic vinaigrette sells for $8, or $13 with chicken. Other salads include a Caesar ($7, $12 with chicken), an apple-blue cheese ($8), or a grapefruit-orange salad with hearts of palm ($7).

There's no flashy dining room or decor, just a simple deli setup with big picture-window views of Magnolia.

Ryan's sells local Black Rooster Bakery breads and will start making desserts soon; open 9 a.m. through dinner weekdays and Saturdays, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Sundays at 815 W. Magnolia Ave., 817-945-2770, ryansfinegrocer.com.

(If you haven't tried Magnolia Cheese, it's at 1251 W. Magnolia Ave., 817-945-2221; facebook.com/magnoliacheese.)

For the record, there is both good barbecue in New York and good chicken-fried steak.

Texans trapped in the Big Apple can feel like they're halfway home at Hill Country Barbecue Market, 30 W. 26th St. near New York's own General Worth Square and monument.

In its fourth year, Hill Country has made a reputation as an outpost for Lockhart-style Kreuz Market barbecue and sausage. A recent combination dinner included brisket, beef ribs, pork ribs and chicken for $26 -- enough to feed two.

It's open daily at noon with full plates until midnight on weekends; 212-255-4544, hillcountryny.com.

For chicken-fried steak, the Roebling Tea Room bar in Brooklyn matches Texas' best Sundays at brunch; 143 Roebling St., 718-963-0760, roeblingtearoom.com.

Bud Kennedy's Eats Beat appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com Weekend. 817-390-7538

Facebook: Bud Kennedy's Eats Beat

Twitter: @eatsbeat

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