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Americans love chardonnay.
More than one-fifth of all the wine sold in the U.S., according to the Nielsen people, is chardonnay. That’s about one-third more than cabernet sauvignon, the most popular red wine, and more than three times as much as pinot grigio, the next most popular white wine. And if that’s not enough, the most popular wine sold in U.S. restaurants is Kendall Jackson chardonnay, according to Restaurant Wine magazine.Isn’t it time to try something else?This is not to knock chardonnay, which is often wonderful wine, but there is no law that forces us to drink chardonnay all the time. We seem to do it anyway, I think, because we’re hesitant to try anything else. This is silly. The only two rules to keep in mind with wine are to drink what you like and to be willing to try something different. That’s why we’ve found five nonchardonnay white wines that are well made, are equally suitable with food or on their own, and are not expensive.Do they taste like chardonnay? Nope, but they’re not supposed to.They’re supposed to taste like what they are, which is not chardonnay:Domaine du Tariquet 2008It’s not chardonnay because: This blend of ugni blanc and colombard from Gascony in southwest France is the kind of simple, yet quality, wine that Europeans drink daily but that confuses Americans. Look for lots of crisp green apple fruit and even some citrus; drink this chilled on its own or with grilled shrimp.Availability and cost: Central Market Fort Worth and Southlake, $10.Elsa Bianchi Torrontes 2008 It’s not chardonnay because: Torrontes is Argentina’s national white grape, and that’s about the only place in the world where it’s grown. Frankly, many inexpensive torrontes aren’t very good. But this wine is stylish — off-dry, with a stony finish and peach fruit. Drink it quite chilled with spicy food, where its sweetness will pay off.Availability and cost: Select Kings Liquor stores, $10.The Other "White" 2006It’s not chardonnay because: It’s one-third sauvignon blanc and viognier from Peirano Estates, one of California’s savviest value producers. Why savvy? Because Peirano could have made another dull and boring chardonnay but decided to do something much more interesting. Look for pears and a bit of lemon, and drink this chilled on its own or with roast chicken or spaghetti with olive oil and roast vegetables.Availability and cost: Central Market Fort Worth and Southlake, Market Street Colleyville, select Kings Liquor stores, select Goody Goody stores, Put a Cork in It (2972 Park Hill Drive, Fort Worth), $12-$15.Charles Smith The Honorable Pinot Gris 2007It’s not chardonnay because: Pinot gris is a fruitier and cleaner version of the Italian pinot grigio that most of us know, and this is one of the best made that you’ll find. Winemaker Charles Smith believes in quality, fair prices and goofy names. The Honorable has some pear fruit and minerality, and the acid is balanced quite nicely. It’s a satisfying wine that you can drink with vegetarian dishes or steamed mussels.Availability and cost: Whole Foods Arlington, $13.Bogle Riesling 2008It’s not chardonnay because: Bogle is one of the two or three best value producers in the U.S., so when it releases a riesling, get a bottle. Don’t worry that because it’s a riesling it will be too sweet — here, the sweetness is balanced with crisp acidity and green apple fruit. Drink this chilled with rich cheeses or pad Thai with shrimp.Availability and cost: World Market, select Kings Liquor stores, $9-$10.Freelance writer Jeff Siegel writes about food and wine. E-mail him at wine.curmudgeon@att.net or visit his wine blog at winecurmudgeon.com.
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