Eats Beat: Candlelite fires up for Easter, plus Cane Rosso pizzas and more

Posted Tuesday, Apr. 15, 2014  comments  Print Reprints
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kennedy For the first time in two years, Dallas-Fort Worth can have Easter lunch at the Candlelite Inn.

Arlington’s iconic 1950s roadside landmark near AT&T Stadium reopened last week to huge crowds and hourlong waits for the inexpensive steaks, Tex-Mex, pizzas and particularly the beloved green salsa.

Candlelite’s crowds have been 50 percent larger than expected, new owner Alan Petsche said last weekend. Some days, servers have delivered chips and the Inn’s much-remembered guacamole to motorists waiting for a parking space.

Best surprise last weekend: the $15.99 rib-eye or $19.99 filet mignon, pillowy soft with old-school charbroiler flavor and a choice of salad, potato, pasta or Spanish rice and beans.

Also a surprise: the Candlelite dessert menu, including cakes such as white chocolate, strawberry or butter-cream cheese “Neiman Marcus” cake.

Food and even beer ran low some nights last week, so managers have doubled orders. A larger bar menu is coming.

The restaurant, a 1950s Texas landmark built when Division Street was part of a major transcontinental highway, opens daily at 11 a.m. and closes at 9 p.m. Sundays and weekdays, 10 p.m. weekends.

For Easter, Candlelite will open at 11 a.m. and serve its same familiar menu and prices. (No premium holiday pricing here.)

It’s at 1202 E. Division St., at AT&T Way; 817-275-9613. Until the social media pages are updated, look on Facebook for “Fans of Candlelite Inn.”

• More Easter menus to watch:

Reata Restaurant is offering its regular inexpensive $10-$13 brunch items plus the regular menu; 310 Houston St., 817-336-1009, reata.net.

Chop House Steak & Seafood in Pantego is serving a Sunday buffet with prime rib, breakfast dishes or bacon-fried chicken; 2230 W. Park Row Drive, 817-274-2600, chophousesteakandseafood.com.

The clever Max’s Wine Dive offers chef Stefon Rishel’s pulled lamb eggs Benedict, English pea-mint deviled eggs and a Meyer lemon tart; maxswinedive.com.

Barter in Dallas, for which chef Tim Love is a consultant, will serve chef Andrew Dilda’s stuffed rabbit (yes, really) with summer succotash and a gin-fava bean puree; 3232 McKinney Ave., 214-969-6898, barteruptown.com.

Cooper’s Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que in the Stockyards has a boneless pork chop with potato for about $12.99; 301 Stockyards Blvd., 817-626-6464, coopersbbqfort worth.com.

Vance Godbey’s Restaurant, a classic Southern buffet open every holiday, serves filets, barbecue, chicken, catfish and more for $14.99; 11 a.m.-5 p.m., 8601 Jacksboro Highway (Texas 199), Lakeside, 817-237-2218; vancegodbeys.com.

The Del Frisco’s restaurants are mostly booked, along with the Cast Iron Omni Fort Worth buffet. For more ideas, try opentable.com.

• The new Cane Rosso pizzeria is premiering its new brunch menu, just in time for the holidays.

Ricotta pancakes with mascarpone or ricotta biscuits ($10) lead the selection, and there’s an egg-potato-and-bacon pizza on Cane Rosso’s famous Neapolitan crust ($16).

Mimosas sell for $1, or micheladas for $5.

Cane Rosso serves brunch both Saturday and Sunday, and so far it’s not as crowded as the dinner hours.

The regular menu is also available, with pizzas like the Gipsy Danger (jalapeños, mushrooms and soppressata marmalade) or the Honey Badger (spicy soppressata, basil and habanero honey).

It’s open 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Easter Sunday; 815 W. Magnolia Ave., 817-922-9222, canerosso.com.

• Reminder: Joe T. Garcia’s is always closed Easter.

Both Esperanza’s Cafe & Bakery locations are open until 5 p.m., and both have small patios and take credit cards; joets.com.

(The Park Place location near the Fort Worth Zoo even has the large nachos and a “Joe T.’s” dinner.)

Bud Kennedy’s column appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com. 817-390-7538 Twitter: @EatsBeat Get alerts at RebelMouse.com/eats.

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