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Filling the Bread Basket

Posted Wednesday, Nov. 06, 2013  comments  Print Reprints
Makes 32 rolls 1 ounce active dry yeast 12 ounces water 1 pound, 6 ounces bread flour 1/2 ounce salt 2 ounces granulated sugar 1 ounce nonfat dry milk powder 1 ounce shortening 1 ounce unsalted butter, softened 1 egg Egg wash, as needed 1. Dissolve yeast in the water in a bowl. 2. Combine flour, salt, sugar, milk powder, shortening, butter and egg in the bowl of a mixer fitted with a dough hook. Add water-yeast mixture to the mixer bowl and stir to combine. 3. Knead on medium speed for 10 minutes until the dough reaches 77 degrees (use a digital thermometer). 4. Transfer the dough to a lightly greased bowl, cover and place in a warm spot. Ferment until doubled, about 1 hour. 5. Punch down the dough. Let it rest a few minutes to allow the gluten to relax. Divide dough into 1 1/4-ounce portions and round into balls by hand. Shape as desired and arrange on paper-lined sheet pans. Proof until doubled in size. 6. Carefully brush the proofed rolls with egg wash. Bake at 400 degrees until medium-brown, about 12 to 15 minutes. — 6100 Camp Bowie Blvd., Fort Worth, 817-737-8427, www.csftw.com
Makes 1 large flatbread 1 1/4 cups filtered water, plus more as needed 1 tablespoon instant yeast (look for “rapid rise” on the label) 1/4 cup olive oil, plus extra for pan 3 1/4 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons fine sea salt Optional toppings: Fresh or dried herbs, olives, cheese, salt and pepper 1. Attach the dough hook to a stand mixer. In the bowl, add water, yeast, olive oil and flour. Mix on low speed for about 3 minutes or until the ingredients are well combined. Stop the mixer and scrape down the bowl as needed. Add additional water, if needed. The dough should look moist and should mostly clear the sides of the bowl, retaining a “root” at the bottom. The dough will look much wetter and stickier than other bread doughs — focaccia is closer to a batter. Do not add extra flour. 2. Add salt and continue to mix on low to medium speed for about 10 minutes. To test if the dough has developed enough gluten to rise properly, pinch off a walnut-size piece and stretch it between both hands. If the dough breaks and splits, it is not ready. Continue to mix and test again after a few minutes. When the dough is ready, it will form a “windowpane” — you will be able to stretch a piece of dough until it is thin enough to form a membrane through which you can see light. 3. Coat a large bowl with cooking spray or olive oil. Scrape dough into bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let dough rest for about an hour, or until it has doubled in size. (You can mark the starting level on the side of the bowl with a piece of tape.) If your finger leaves a deep impression and the dough does not spring back, it is ready. 4. Generously coat a jellyroll pan or sheet pan with low sides (11 inches by 17 inches or 12 inches by 18 inches) with olive oil. Tilt the dough bowl over the pan, sliding the risen dough into it. Using a little olive oil on your hands, gently shape the dough into a rectangular or oval shape in the pan. Try not to press out all the gas — this is what makes the bread light and airy inside. Make sure the top of the bread is coated lightly with olive oil to prevent it from drying out. 5. If desired, top bread with cheese, herbs, salt and pepper, or other garnishes. Set the pan aside and let the dough rest until doubled in size. To test, press your finger gently into the dough. It should not spring back. 6. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Bake the bread for 15-30 minutes, depending on how thick the loaf is, or until the bread is well-browned. An instant-read thermometer inserted near the center of the loaf will read 196 degrees when done. Let the bread cool on a wire rack. To serve warm, wrap the bread in foil and reheat in a 300-degree oven for 10-15 minutes. — 4900 White Settlement Road, Fort Worth, 817-821-3124, www.artisan-baking-company.com
Makes 5 loaves 2 pounds, 9 ounces organic bread flour 11.9 ounces organic whole-wheat flour 2.5 ounces organic cracked wheat 3.4 ounce salt 1/4 teaspoon instant dry yeast 1 pound, 3 ounces pâte fermentée ( Pâte fermentée literally means “old dough.” It’s dough made the day before used to impart a complex flavor to the final bread. Use the basic recipe below, or any day-old dough will do.) 2 pounds, 5 ounces water 1. Mix all ingredients with a dough hook until dough is silky smooth. Let rest, covered, for 90 minutes. 2. Divide dough into five equal pieces and shape oblong. Place into a whole-wheat floured proofing basket or floured, cloth-draped colander, and proof (to let rise once shaped) for 20 hours at around 50 degrees. 3. Remove dough by inverting basket and make two scores (slashes) with a very sharp blade on top of the dough. Bake on a baking stone for 25 to 30 minutes at 500 degrees with steam, or spray dough with water after placing into oven. — 700 W. Dallas Road, Grapevine, 817-488-5223, www.breadhaus.com
Makes 1 3/4 pounds dough 16 ounces all-purpose flour 0.37 ounce salt (about 2 1/4 teaspoons) 0.01 ounce instant dry yeast (1/16 teaspoon less than 1 teaspoon) 10 3/4 ounces water (about 1 1/4 cups plus 1 tablespoon) 1. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, salt and yeast. Add water and, using your hands, mix until incorporated, about 3 minutes. (Alternatively, mix in a mixer on the lowest setting possible.) 2. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and put in a warm place. Let the dough ferment for 1 hour. The dough should be at 75 degrees. 3. Refrigerate dough at least 10 hours and up to 36 hours. When ready, it will be roughly doubled in size.
Makes 3 loaves 441 grams all-purpose flour 309 grams water 9 grams salt 2 grams instant yeast 88 grams pâte fermentée (recipe follows) Pâte Fermentée: 51 grams all-purpose flour 36 grams water 1 gram salt Tiny pinch of instant yeast 1. Combine pâte fermentée ingredients to create a dough and refrigerate overnight, up to 24 hours. 2. Mix flour and water for 2 to 4 minutes at speed 1 on mixer. 3. Let stand 15 minutes. This is called autolyse — a French method of mixing to achieve a level of dough development with considerably less mixing. 4. Add salt, yeast and pâte fermentée and mix for 1 to 2 minutes on speed 1, then 4 to 5 minutes on speed 2 until you have developed dough. 5. Remove from mixer, cover, and let rest for two hours. This is called bulk fermentation. 6. After one hour, turn and degas the dough, which means knead and press to allow gas bubbles to escape. 7. Divide dough and preshape logs. Let rest on the work surface, or bench rest, for 15 minutes. 8. Shape dough into a baguette and proof on a couche, a French linen used for proofing breads, for 30 minutes. 9. Bake at 470 degrees with steam for 23 minutes. — 2430 Forest Park Blvd., Fort Worth, 817-924-1600, www.blackroosterbakery.com

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This Thanksgiving, we’re bringing the bread basket back to the dinner table. It will become a centerpiece and not an afterthought. There will be no frozen breadsticks and no prepackaged, pull-apart rolls. For once, we’d like to sop up gravy with something of quality, and melt butter on a beautiful baguette and not a canned biscuit.

Some may argue that traditional Turkey Day dinners should lose the bread altogether, as the meal itself is carb-heavy enough. Plus, why take the limelight away from all the pies? But as we fight to stay gluten-free and paleo-friendly in our everyday dining, bread making has become a lost art. If there’s any other time of year to bring bread back, it’s now.

Four local bakers who remain passionate about their craft share their recipes for dinnertime breads worthy of your prep time — and some of the Thanksgiving-table spotlight.


If you’ve never baked bread, these easy rolls are a good way to start. There are no real rules for shaping the dough, and prep time is minimal compared with more complicated doughs. Culinary School Director Heather Kurima says the rolls are a frequent item on the school’s biweekly brunch buffet, as they provide the perfect starter bread for students to master. They also taste great with flavored butters, like cinnamon sugar or truffle salt.


Petra Lively, who has a background in food science, was born in Germany and says bread has always been a part of her life. She and husband Mark opened their Grapevine bakery 17 years ago and have grown to offer dozens of rustic breads and traditional sweets baked with organic flour in their deep-deck European oven. Try Lively’s rustic wheat bread not only for dinner, but sliced for leftover turkey sandwiches.


Gwin Grimes, owner and baker of Artisan Baking Company, likes to top her focaccia bread with Kalamata olives or sprinkle it with cheese and herbs before baking. The thick, fluffy flatbread, made with a generous amount of olive oil, fills the house with a heavenly aroma when baked, making it hard to keep the family out of the kitchen. Make this bread vegan by skipping the cheese.


Quite possibly the most complicated type of bread to make, the French baguette takes practice to perfect. Marche Ann Mann, baker and owner of Black Rooster Bakery, is known for having some of the best in town, but she also studied at the French Culinary Institute in New York. Here, she shares what she says is the easiest method for this complex bread for the home baker. Note that the recipe ingredients are listed in grams, which is the norm for European breads and is how Mann was trained. Before delving into baguette-making, consider purchasing a small kitchen scale (most measure in both ounces and grams), which will provide the most accurate measurement and ensure optimum results.

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