Eats Beat: Cane Rosso grabs at second chance for Fort Worth location

Posted Thursday, Aug. 22, 2013  comments  Print Reprints

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kennedy For il Cane Rosso, it was the second bite at Fort Worth.

Owner Jay Jerrier leased a former gourmet grocery for a new Cane Rosso pizzeria this week, a year after passing up the same West Magnolia Avenue space.

Every time he came looking for a location, Jerrier said, “I’d sit at Brewed and look at [the former] Ryan’s and say, ‘That’d sure make a great Cane Rosso.’”

When he saw Ryan’s closing notice on Facebook, he reached for his phone: “I learned that when you see something you want, grab it.”

The new Cane Rosso will open by winter, or as soon as a woodburning Neapolitan pizza oven is delivered from Italy, he said. The Ryan’s meat counter will become the bar and beer cooler, and the grocery floor becomes the dining room.

The polished “R” out front will switch for the emblem of Cane Rosso (”red dog”), he said.

Cane Rosso will continue to serve Thursdays and Friday nights in Fort Worth at Times Ten Cellars, 1100 Foch St.

“We looked for a location there but it was too expensive,” Jerrier said.

“The south side feels like Deep Ellum — cool restaurants and bars, a supportive neighborhood and the medical district customers at lunch. It’s a great fit.”

The original Cane Rosso location is at 2612 Commerce St. in Dallas. A second location is open at 7328 Gaston Ave., and Jerrier also has opened Zoli’s, a New York pizza tavern, at 202 W. Davis St. near the Bishop Arts District in Dallas’ Oak Cliff neighborhood.

Come back soon, Dove

Lonesome Dove Western Bistro started it all.

Until chef Tim Love won a 2006 episode of Iron Chef America, the rest of America paid no attention to cowboy cuisine in Fort Worth.

Now Love’s restaurant will be closed about two months after a Tuesday-morning fire.

The restaurant will continue to serve private parties, he said. That kitchen wasn’t affected.

Meanwhile, try a Love Shack burger nearby, or dinner at the Woodshed Smokehouse in Fort Worth or Queenie’s Steakhouse in Denton.

The Dove and Love’s quail quesadillas will be back before Thanksgiving; 2406 N. Main St.,

(Love’s other former Love Shack on the Bluebonnet Circle will reopen by October as Fred’s Texas Cafe TCU.)

Cultural District Thai

Happy Bowl Thai is stepping up.

The Suthamtewakul family’s overachieving little White Settlement restaurant will open its second location at 3431 W. Seventh St., in a strip shopping center near the University of North Texas medical school.

Happy Bowl is known for spicy Thai dishes and bargain prices. The weekday lunch specials cost $7.95 and includes soup or eggroll and drink, and most dinners are $9-$10.

It’ll open within weeks on West Seventh Street, then begin work on a Southlake location. The original is at 8149 White Settlement Road at Meadow Park Drive, 817-246-0977.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in 817-390-7538 Twitter: @EatsBeat Facebook: Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat Get alerts at

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