Eats Beat: Bush library’s Cafe 43 serves lunch-table diplomacy

Posted Wednesday, May. 08, 2013  comments  Print Reprints
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kennedy Cafe 43 is politically neutral.

That is, as neutral as dining can be in the west wing of the new George W. Bush Presidential Library and Museum.

The lunch-only menu is priced in the $10-$22 range and offers everything from Southern pulled pork to grilled halibut.

Once you park — no small feat during these opening days — it’s an easy walk from SMU Boulevard past the museum line and into the separate entrance for the cafe.

As museum cafes go, Cafe 43 is better than expected. It’s no Nasher Cafe or Café Modern, but former ClubCorp country-club chef John Maas presents a low-risk, high-flavor menu that seemed spot-on from the first day.

The grilled Arctic char came with a corn-sweet pea succotash, the halibut with wilted greens. Another diner praised the turkey pastrami on rye.

Cafe 43 also has a wide choice of salads, from a kale-duck prosciutto to a Texas bibb lettuce with pecan-crusted goat cheese. The hardwood-grilled chicken Caesar is off the same grill as the thick bacon cheddar burgers.

For dessert, the menu highlights a carrot griddlecake with cardamom cream cheese.

But the flourless chocolate torte with salted caramel would tempt anyone to switch parties.

Cafe 43 is open weekdays and Saturdays for lunch only (until 3 p.m.) and Sundays at 10 a.m. for brunch.

A weekly brunch menu is expected to premiere for Mother’s Day, but the day is already booked; 2943 SMU Blvd., University Park, 214-200-4302, bushcenter.com/plan- your-visit/dining.

Deals, menus for mom

Here are a few Mother’s Day deals, but book soon:

•  Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse is giving a $25 gift card with a $50 brunch purchase.

The menu features steak-and-eggs for $26 or banana-mascarpone-stuffed French toast with bacon for $18, with $10 child’s plates; 812 Main St., Fort Worth, 817-877-3999, delfriscos.com.

•  The Classic at Roanoke, chef Charles Youts’ underrated restaurant, has a unique, floral Mother’s Day menu.

Choices include hibiscus-cashew turkey with hibiscus marmalade or beef tenderloin with lavender goat cheese, plus a violet-artichoke cream soup or spinach-nasturtium salad. The dessert is a jasmine-lemon tart; $40, 504 N. Oak St., 817-430-8185, theclassiccafe.com.

•  Six10 Grille in the Ashton Hotel will serve breakfast and then a special brunch featuring a filet mignon jardiniere, a ham and gruyere-stuffed chicken breast or shrimp and crab in a lobster Mornay sauce; $45, 817-332-0100, theashtonhotel.com.

Bud Kennedy’s column appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com. 817-390-7538 Facebook: Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat Twitter @EatsBeat Get alerts at RebelMouse.com/eats

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