Posted Wednesday, Apr. 03, 2013
It's a Tuesday night, and Eric Stapleman is behind the long, white ash bar at his restaurant Shibumi, and he's telling me that the stock for his ramen noodle bowls takes 40 to 60 hours to make. There's a kind of magic in the multiboil/let it rest overnight process that results in a superclear stock, he says, and one with 20 ingredients in the end. (Twenty ingredients?! I make mine with five.)
Stapleman talks fast and with a pronounced accent, like the native New Yorker that he is. Quickly and with confidence, in excited bursts.
The Montoya Brothers'
Tortilla Soup at Luminaria
Serves 6 to 8
1 quart onions, chopped
2 cups celery, chopped
2 cups carrots, chopped
1/2 cup garlic, minced
2 cups Anaheim chiles, chopped
4 ounces tomato paste
1 tablespoon Chimayo red chile powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
3 quarts chicken stock
2 ounces cilantro, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
Lime juice to taste
2 cups grilled corn kernels
(grill corn on the cob, then cut away kernels)
2 cups roasted chicken meat, picked
and free of bones or cartilage
2 cups diced corn tortillas, fried
Fresh cilantro sprigs as garnish
Lime wedges as garnish
1. Saute the onion, celery, carrot, garlic and Anaheim chiles over medium heat until soft.
2. Add the tomato paste and saute for 3 minutes.
3. Add the Chimayo red chile powder and cumin, and saute for just a minute more.
4. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Turn down heat and simmer for about 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
5. Add the cilantro and let steep for a couple minutes.
6. Carefully transfer soup to a blender and process until smooth.
7. Strain through a coarse-holed strainer or use cheesecloth set in a mesh strainer.
8. Add salt and pepper to taste; then add lime juice to taste.
9. Let soup cool and refrigerate until ready to serve.
10. To serve, heat the soup base, and add the grilled corn kernels and roasted chicken meat until it boils. Then allow the soup to boil for at least 1 minute. Pour the hot soup into a bowl and add the diced tortillas. Garnish with a fresh sprig of cilantro and a lime wedge on the side.
Where To Dine Globally in Santa Fe
The Anasazi at Inn
of the Anasazi
113 Washington Ave.
428 Agua Fria St.
402 N. Guadalupe St.
2010 Cerrillos Road
72 W. Marcy St.
125 Lincoln Ave.,
Luminaria at Inn
211 Old Santa Fe Trail
Momo & Co.
229-A Johnson St.
544 Agua Fria St.
1291 San Felipe Ave
26 Chapelle St.
1512 Pacheco St.
Terra at Encantado
198 State Road 592
229 Galisteo St.
1115 Hickox St.
709 Don Cubero
851-B Cerrillos Road
"You're lucky to be here tonight," he says, abruptly. "We weren't even going to be open. We were catering a party for TL, but he canceled at the last minute. That's why you have these things -- anakyu (eel with cucumber), ohitashi (spinach with ponzu and bonito fish flakes) -- on the menu."
Tommy Lee Jones.
Oh. Right. Of course.
We're in a tiny, Zen-like space tucked into half of an adobe also occupied by the new French restaurant Vivre, also owned by Stapleman.
Shibumi is a Japanese-style tavern, Stapleman explains, much like the sort of place where locals (in Japan, that is) go for a sake and a small bite to eat. Sort of like a tapas bar. But Japanese, not Spanish (although a new one of those just opened down the street). With oversize ramen noodle bowls in addition to the izakaya (small plates), and served up in pottery flown in from Japan.
Whew. Got that?
And you thought eating in Santa Fe was just about chiles.
Over the past decade or so, the "city different" has become the "city international" when it comes to dining, and it offers a wide variety of cuisines, which the city's well-traveled locals appreciate.
It's not that New Mexican cuisine is eclipsed by all of the new foreign tastes and flavors; it's just that there's now so much more to choose from -- and much of it is quite good.
"What's happening in Santa Fe right now mirrors a national trend of local food enthusiasts looking to expand their palates without spending money on travel," says Rob DeWalt, food section editor for Pasatiempo. "The upside of a curious, if relatively small, capital city community of food consumers is that wherever a niche needs filling, there will always be someone with the skills and passion to do the job. Ahmed Obo at Jambo Cafe recently expanded his business and serves authentic dishes from his homeland, Lamu Island, off the coast of Kenya. His goat stew is not to be missed."
Goat stew! Who knew?
The locals do. Both Jumbo and Shibumi are on Santa Fe foodies' short list of where to dine, and they both made the Santa Fe Reporter's Top 10 list last year, along with Raaga, an Indian restaurant, and Azur, a Mediterranean-style bistro with a French chef in the kitchen. Last fall, the always-crowded Spanish tapas restaurant La Boca opened a more casual sibling, Taberna La Boca, for small plates of jamon Iberico, tortilla and patatas bravas.
Spin the globe. It goes on.
There's Clafoutis, where the French owners make croissants, madeleines and macarons from scratch; the über laid-back Tune-Up Cafe, best described as New Mexican meets El Salvadoran; the newish Swiss Bakery Pastries & Bistro; and Vinaigrette, where you will find dinner-size salads made with locally grown greens, along with add-ons such as duck, salmon and chicken.
An impressively diverse menu for a city with a population of just 68,642 -- or any city, for that matter.
From Intergalactic Bread Company's fiery green chile focaccia at the twice-weekly Santa Fe Farmer's Market to the blue corn with strawberry-jalapeño jam or eggnog creme-filled doughnuts at Whoo's Donuts, the chefs in Santa Fe's kitchens are mixing and matching flavors as they see fit.
There's a spirit of playfulness here, a sense that food is to be enjoyed, whether it comes with red or green, or not at all. It's not unusual to be told to "have a groovy day" by a barista at a coffee shop, nor is it odd to be offered a spoonful of habanero hot fudge to be swirled into one's latte on a cold winter's day, something that I gladly accepted on a recent visit -- and now crave.
Trending now are boutique bakeries, and there are two new, superpopular gluten-free shops, Revolution Bakery and Momo & Co.; and the slightly ethnic, reasonably priced Sweetwater restaurant, which offers a bit of it all -- from craft beers and organic fair trade coffee to breakfasts featuring lemon ricotta spelt pancakes to payasam, an East Indian hot cereal, served with pistachios and raisins.
In the fine-dining scene, chefs are coming into the city and staying. Charles Dale, the ex-chef at Terra at Encantado, is opening a new French bistro at the old Aqua Santa space this spring.
Joseph Wrede, best known for his innovative menus at the now-defunct Joseph's Table in Taos, has found himself a home at the newish restaurant Tomme, by way of a short stint at The Palace Restaurant and Saloon (perhaps the resident ghosts drove him away). In any case, Wrede's recent relocation to Santa Fe and Tomme is considered to be a very good thing.
"To find Wrede at Tomme is doubly exciting, and he is doing great things there," says DeWalt. "While Wrede flexes many culinary muscles, his small, whimsical twists on familiar cuisine are his trademark. The Grilled Marin with Sea Salt and Lime, Black Bean and Pumpkin-Corn Mole may have its roots in seafaring towns, but Wrede makes it taste like a slice of home."
Using local ingredients
Local may be today's organic, but any way you look at it, whether you're a chef or not, eating from your own back yard just makes good sense. In Santa Fe, finding homegrown spices and chiles are a given, but northern New Mexico grows much more than that. The Santa Fe farmer's market sells fresh goat cheeses from South Mountain Dairy and Old Windmill Dairy; fresh chickens and green chile-flecked sausages at Pollo Real (with a freestanding butcher shop to open soon); and greens, chiles and whatever's in season and growing at Matt Romero's 11-acre farm near Dixon.
Santa Fe chefs like Juan Bochenski at the Anasazi Restaurant at Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi are big supporters of what's locally grown and raised.
"We not only support local produce, but also work through a local Santa Fe purveyor to procure elk from the Rocky Mountains and lamb from northern New Mexico," Bochenski says. He serves Rocky Mountain Grilled Elk Short Loin with Baby Root Vegetables, Goat Cheese Dumplings and Caramelized Onion Jus; and a Free-Range New Mexico Lamb Roast with Jalapeño-Cheddar Croquettes, Mixed Vegetable Ragout and Cherry Mole.
Brett Sparman at Inn at Loretto's Luminaria also buys local lamb and other produce, but takes local a step further by keeping an award-winning tortilla soup, created by a pair of brothers from Chimayo who have been in the Luminaria kitchen for 36 years, on the menu for lunch and dinner.
"I think the idea of local food just became the standard, and in the case of the Montoya brothers, these guys are cooking like their grandmothers did," says Sparman. "There are so many styles of this soup in Santa Fe, but I think ours is by far one of the best. I always lean on my cooks when I'm creating new dishes, who for the most part have been eating these flavors their whole lives."
When my torigara soup (ramen soup with roasted chicken and veggies) arrives in a beautiful glazed brown bowl, big enough, I'm thinking, to feed at least four hungry people, I'm grateful for Stapleman's obsessiveness with the first rich, noodle-y bite. It is delicious and it is exactly the sort of thing that I crave when it's cold outside, as it is on this particular night, just two days after a big snow (and two days away from another one, it turned out).
Don't get me wrong. I order green chile on eggs for breakfast, on burgers for lunch and heaped on top of blue corn enchiladas for dinner when I'm in Santa Fe, and I buy ground red chile from roadside vendors so I can make my own pork adovada when I'm back home.
From Chef Bochenski's Octopus and Chorizo Medley with Garbanzo Purée, Sun Blushed Tomatoes, Artichokes and Squid Ink Vinaigrette at the Anasazi to the Frito Chili Pie at the Five & Dime General Store on the Plaza, it's all Santa Fe dining to me. I love it all.
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