Chocolate desserts are the stuff of fond memories

By Celestina Blok

Special to the Star-Telegram

The thought of chocolate evokes many sensations: excitement, indulgence, temptation and even pleasure. No wonder it's the preferred confection to give and receive during this month's celebration of love. In honor of Valentine's Day and all of its chocolate reverie, we asked four local pastry chefs to recall their most mind-blowing chocolate experiences. They've re-created those memories here with recipes for dishes that will render your loved ones speechless with chocolate delight.

Sarah Hooton

Manager, Central Market Fort Worth Cooking School

While Sarah Hooton's most memorable chocolate experience is probably her grandmother Mary's chocolate sheet cake (which is now for sale at Central Market), chocolate sorbet topped with olive oil comes in a close second. During a visit to Jean-Georges in New York City, the Central Market Cooking School manager indulged in a dessert sampler offering richly bittersweet, icy sorbet made creamy with a drizzle of high-end olive oil. "Out of every complicated mousse, cake and pastry on that plate, that simple combination stood out the most," she says. Hooton has combined the unforgettable dish with an element from another of her most memorable chocolate menu items -- caramelized, salted brioche, a dessert that her pastry chef friend serves in New York City with malted-chocolate pudding. As a final decadent touch, Hooton garnishes her custom creation with a salty, crunchy chocolate-hazelnut topping, noting, "I am a real big fan of savory, salty-sweet and crunch."

Barbara Harris

Owner, Silver Spoon Cafe & Bakery

Intemperance is defined as a lack of moderation, or even drunkenness, and in the case of Barbara Harris' signature dessert, chocolate is the intoxicant. The Silver Spoon Cafe & Bakery owner has made the three-layer, Tia Maria liqueur-infused brownie cake for more than 30 years, primarily for the birthday of her husband, Bill. "It was always his dessert of choice," she says. "And sometimes you want something other than just a regular birthday cake." The dense dessert is offered on occasion at Harris' pink banquette-filled Southlake eatery, which opened last summer with a colorful menu of salads, sandwiches and soups. The restaurant isn't Harris' first dabble in dining. The San Antonio native moved to Dallas in 1989 to establish the famed Celebrity Café & Bakery in Highland Park Village, which she owned for nearly 20 years. At 78, Harris admits baking is still in her blood, and she feels obligated to re-create this memorable dessert for any chocoholic's fix, including her own. "It's a chocolate-lover's dream."

Hans Muller

Owner, Swiss Pastry Shop

Hans Muller, the teddy bear of a baker and owner of Swiss Pastry Shop, recalls waking up to fresh bakery bread and treats every morning during his frequent trips to Switzerland as a child, courtesy of an aunt who would rise before everyone in the house. "My absolute favorite was schoggi brot, or chocolate-stuffed brioche," Muller says. "I just remember it as perfect, rich buttery dough with creamy chocolate inside." Muller has re-created the memorable indulgence with this easy-to-follow recipe. He adds chopped hazelnuts to this version (because he likes to "gild the lily," he says), which provide soft crunches amid the pastry's buttery, bready bites. But it's the hazelnut butter-based chocolate, or gianduja, tucked inside the dough that makes this dessert (or breakfast) an instant addiction. "I made sure my kids got some the last time we were there and that's all they talked about," Muller says. "It's like a Christmas present with another one inside."

Sally Schwartz

Pastry chef for Tim Love

Sally Schwartz recalls one thunderous camping night during which she experienced the chocolate highlight of her life. Lightning killed the power to her and her husband's RV, so she was forced to bake her brownie batter (prepared midstorm) inside a gas grill. "I'll never forget the smoky chocolate decadence of that barbecue brownie topped with creamy dark chocolate ice cream. It blew our heads straight off," she says. Schwartz adds white chocolate meringue to her version pictured here, creating a riff on the classic baked Alaska dessert. "Just like everything coming out of chef Tim Love's kitchens, my baked Alaska has been given a Texas twist."

Chocolate sorbet with olive oil & caramelized, salted brioche

Chocolate sorbet:

2 1/4 cups water

1 cup sugar

2 tablespoons corn syrup, light or dark

3/4 cup unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder (Hooton recommends Valrhona brand)

Pinch of salt

6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, such as Valrhona

1. In a medium saucepan, heat the water, sugar and corn syrup together until sugar is dissolved. Whisk in cocoa powder and salt.

2. Remove from heat and pour over chocolate. Stir until dissolved and chill.

3. Freeze, following your ice cream machine instructions.

Caramelized salted brioche:

Butter, as needed

8-10 slices brioche, sliced about 1/4-inch thick and cut into desired shape

Powdered sugar, as needed

Salt, as needed

In a saute pan over medium heat, melt a few tablespoons of butter. Add brioche and flip immediately so both sides get soaked with butter. Sprinkle each side with powdered sugar, just to coat, and a small amount of salt. Brown both sides, remove from pan and let cool.

Chocolate crunch:

2 cups milk chocolate (Hooton recommends Valrhona or Callebaut brand)

4 tablespoons Nutella

1 cup Feuilletine, crushed ice cream cones or wafer cookies, or rice cereal

1. Over a double boiler, carefully melt the chocolate and Nutella together. Once melted and smooth, remove from heat and add Feuilletine, crushed cones or cookies, or rice cereal.

2. Take approximately 1 cup of the mixture and press between two sheets of parchment or wax paper until it is about 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick. Use a rolling pin if necessary.

3. Place on a sheet tray and freeze until it sets.

4. Break into large pieces to serve. Pieces can be stored in the refrigerator.

Assembly:

Place brioche on a plate, scoop sorbet on top, drizzle with a high-quality olive oil, and garnish with chocolate crunch and even colored sea salt.

Nutritional information per serving, based on 8: 772 calories, 38 grams fat, 109 grams carbohydrates, 12 grams protein, 211 milligrams cholesterol, 374 milligrams sodium, 7 grams dietary fiber, 42 percent of calories from fat.

-- Sarah Hooton, Central Market, 4651 West Freeway, Fort Worth, 817-989-4700; www.centralmarket.com

Chocolate intemperance

Brownies:

1 cup butter, softened

2 cups sugar

4 eggs

2 teaspoons vanilla

1 1/2 cups flour

2/3 cup cocoa

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup pecans, chopped (optional)

1. Cream butter and sugar together. Add eggs and vanilla and blend. Add dry ingredients and mix well. Stir in pecans, if using.

2. Pour into greased 10-by-15-inch baking pan and bake at 325 degrees 20-25 minutes.

Chocolate frosting:

3 cups semisweet chocolate chips

1/2 cup whipping cream

4 1/2 tablespoons butter

1/4 cup Tia Maria liqueur

1. Melt chocolate chips with whipping cream in a microwave. Stir until smooth. Whisk in butter. Add Tia Maria and let sit for 20 minutes.

2. Beat with a mixer on medium speed 4-5 minutes until stiff peaks form.

Assembly:

Cut brownie into three 5-by-10-inch pieces. Spread frosting onto one layer. Add second layer and spread frosting. Add third layer and frost top and sides with remaining frosting.

Garnish with white chocolate curls and/or chocolate-dipped strawberries, if desired. Keep refrigerated.

Nutritional information per serving, based on 15: 515 calories, 31 grams fat, 60 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams protein, 110 milligrams cholesterol, 290 milligrams sodium, 4 grams dietary fiber, 51 percent of calories from fat.

Texas Tornado barbecue brownie baked Alaska with homemade dark chocolate ice cream & white chocolate meringue

Dark chocolate ice cream:

Makes about 1 quart

16 ounces milk

2 ounces cornstarch

3 egg yolks

2 ounces cream cheese, softened at room temperature

4 ounces dark chocolate, melted (see note)

10 ounces heavy cream

1 ounce light corn syrup

2 1/2 ounces sugar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1. In a medium mixing bowl, gently whisk together 4 ounces of the milk and the cornstarch. Set aside.

2. Whisk egg yolks, cream cheese and melted chocolate together in a large mixing bowl. Set aside.

3. In a medium pot approximately 3-4 quart size (stainless steel is best), gently whisk together the remaining milk, heavy cream, light corn syrup, sugar and salt. Bring this mixture to a boil over medium-high heat and cook 3-4 minutes, whisking continuously. Add the milk/cornstarch slurry mixture and whisk continuously until thickened, about 2-4 minutes. Remove from heat.

4. Slowly add thickened mixture to reserved cream cheese mixture, still whisking all the while.

5. Chill in the refrigerator overnight or place cooled mixture in a gallon-size plastic bag and chill in an ice bath until very cold. Follow manufacturer instructions for ice cream maker.

Note: Schwartz prefers a high-quality chocolate between 60 and 70 percent cocoa. Chocolate can be melted slowly over a double boiler or in a microwave at 10- to 20-second intervals, stirring after each interval.

Barbecue brownie:

Makes 12 brownies

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature, for greasing

4 large organic eggs, room temperature

13 ounces dark brown sugar

8 ounces cocoa powder, extra brute (dark), sifted

3 ounces unbleached all-purpose flour, sifted

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt (see tip)

8 ounces unsalted butter, melted

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1. Preheat gas grill to 300 degrees. Grease an 8-by-8-inch glass baking dish with 2 tablespoons butter.

2. Beat eggs in a stand mixer with the paddle attachment until light in color. The eggs will resemble the color of a ripe lemon and will appear slightly fluffy.

3. In a separate bowl, combine dark brown sugar, cocoa powder, flour and salt.

4. With mixer on low, slowly add combined dry ingredients to the eggs. Add melted butter and vanilla.

5. Pour batter into prepared baking dish and bake inside the gas grill for 45 minutes or until an inserted toothpick comes out clean. Allow brownie to cool completely.

Tip: Schwartz does not sift kosher salt because it doesn't fit through the sieve. So, add it after you sift the cocoa powder and all-purpose flour.

White chocolate meringue:

Makes enough for 12 servings

6 ounces light corn syrup

12 ounces granulated sugar

8 ounces water, filtered

8 ounces egg whites, at room temperature

Pinch cream of tartar

2 ounces white chocolate, gently melted over double boiler (Do not use white chocolate chips)

1. Place corn syrup, sugar and water in a two-quart stainless-steel pot. Wipe down sides of pot with pastry brush dipped in water. Over low heat, start bringing this mixture to 245 degrees (use a digital or candy thermometer to measure temperature).

2. When syrup reaches 240 degrees, place egg whites and cream of tartar in a stand-mixer bowl and, using the whisk attachment, mix on medium speed until egg whites have soft peaks.

3. Once syrup has reached 245 degrees, mix egg whites on low speed and slowly pour hot syrup into egg whites. When all of the syrup has been added to the egg whites, increase speed to high and whip until stiff and shiny. Fold melted white chocolate into meringue by hand with a rubber spatula.

Assembly:

Place a round or square-cut brownie on a plate and top with a scoop of ice cream. Pipe or spoon meringue around and on top of the ice cream. Caramelize meringue with a kitchen blowtorch or place in the oven under the broiler until meringue is golden.

Nutritional information per serving: 772 calories, 38 grams fat, 109 grams carbohydrates, 12 grams protein, 211 milligrams cholesterol, 374 milligrams sodium, 7 grams dietary fiber, 42 percent of calories from fat.

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