Legendary New Orleans restaurateurs Ti Adelaide Martin and Lally Brennan have written the perfect book with which to celebrate Mardi Gras: In the Land of Cocktails (HarperCollins, $19.95).Cousins and proprietors of the top-ranked Commander's Palace and Cafe Adelaide & the Swizzle Stick Bar, Martin and Brennan offer recipes for traditional New Orleans libations, for creations of their own and for classic cocktails such as the sidecar, which the authors trace back to the brandy crusta, invented in New Orleans in the mid-1700s.Sidecar No. 1Yields 1 cocktail2 tablespoons superfine sugar1 lemon wedge2 ounces domestic brandy1 ounce Cointreau1/2 ounce fresh lemon juice1 lemon twist1. Place the sugar in a shallow dish or saucer. Wet half of the rim of a glass with the lemon wedge (discard the wedge) and dip the rim into the sugar. Fill glass with ice, and set aside. 2. In a cocktail shaker with ice, combine brandy, Cointreau and lemon juice; shake vigorously. Twist the lemon peel into the prepared glass and strain the cocktail over it.Nutritional analysis per serving: 319 calories, 0 grams fat, 34 grams carbohydrates, trace protein, 0 milligrams cholesterol, 1 milligram sodium, trace dietary fiber, 0 percent of calories from fat.