Tapas are real treasures in new fine-dining spot in downtown Fort Worth, The Vault

If you’ve been longing for that classic experience called fine dining (and you don’t belong to a country club), your wait is over. Trot over to downtown Fort Worth and find it at a new venue called The Vault, which occupies part of a former bank space.

The Vault, which opened in May on the ground floor of the Tower, is the creation of Jean Michel Sakouhi, whose restaurants have included charming finds like Paris Bistrot in Dallas and Severine’s in Southlake. The Vault evokes some of the spirit found in his earlier places but goes a bit haute this time around.

With executive chef Gabriel Ochoa, recently of Kalamatas at the Worthington Hotel, at the helm, The Vault offers a number of dishes reminiscent of Sakouhi’s previous Mediterranean menus: Choices on an ever-changing menu often include selections like paella and Moroccan chicken, as well as intriguing fish options, such as roasted swordfish with gazpacho relish, French feta and Greek olive oil.

Because this city is crazy for beef, we opted for the prime New York strip ($45) at a recent dinner visit. The bone-in cut was beautiful to behold but cooked a fraction beyond our requested temperature. It held exemplary texture and flavor, nonetheless. The roasted haricots verts and cauliflower were delivered in proper al dente form.

The more unusual seafood offering from the evening’s menu was the Florida flounder ($22), white filets wrapped around asparagus spears and pan-grilled. While the idea held allure, the result — a mixture of under- and overcooked fish — failed to impress. In retrospect, the miso-marinated black cod ($23) or the herb-crusted John Dory with tomato jam ($26) might have been the way to go.

Our favorite noshing at dinner came from the tapas menu, an appetizer plate of piquillo chiles ($8), squat, slightly pointy red peppers from Spain that were as sweet as they were spicy. These plump jewels were roasted and stuffed with salty Spanish Manchego cheese, warmed and drizzled with a Spanish olive oil. These were the perfect items for sharing, eating them slowly to savor each bite.

The tapas menu, in fact, may wind up being the bigger hit, based on a more appealing experience that we found downstairs on another occasion, in the V Lounge. Other little nibbles include Serrano ham with melon in a port glaze ($7), shrimp seared with garlic and herbs in white wine ($11) and grilled, marinated baby octopus ($7). The lounge’s late-night menu includes ahi tuna sliders ($7) and Texas wagyu beef burgers ($14).

Downstairs, cozy quarters bathed in soft candlelight offer the perfect environs for sipping cocktails and grazing on tapas. The upstairs dining room, by contrast, feels rather stilted, bordering on stuffy. The single red rose stems in crystal vases on dinner tables (which were covered in tablecloths that needed pressing) and the server addressing my tablemate and me as "m’lady" gave the experience an outdated feel.

That said, the Vault serves as a good place for a quiet birthday dinner or a formal business meal. It’s easy to picture a deal closing over a lunch of lobster bisque ($6) followed by a plate of seared Georges Banks scallops with toasted almonds, golden raisins and a balsamic glaze ($16).

Soon, Sakouhi will unveil a wine list boasting 1,200 vintages from around the globe. For now, there are some interesting choices, such as a Matua Valley pinot noir from New Zealand, a slightly spicy, berry-rich pour and a decent value ($8 per glass). It pairs nicely with the Manchego-stuffed piquillos, which we’ll surely revisit soon in the V Lounge.