Villa's trims churrascaria to manageable size

Our well-known fondness for steak has made the Dallas-Fort Worth area an excellent breeding ground for the Brazilian steakhouse concept, the churrascaria.

Dallas was the first North American city settled by Brazil chain Fogo de Chao in 1997. That was promptly followed by more Brazilian-style chains, including Rafain, Dallas-based Texas de Brazil, Grapevine-based Boi Na Braza and Denton-based Master Grill.

The latest entry is Villa’s Open Fire Grill, a churrascaria in a modest spot in old downtown Irving that has previously housed a number of food-related businesses, including a catering company and a Peruvian/Mexican restaurant.

Villa’s is an independently owned outfit from Roberto and Cristine Sa. Roberto has worked at a number of churrascarias since moving to Dallas in 2000, and he opened his own place in December 2007.

In addition to its unique indie status, Villa’s differs from the chains in price: At $9.90 for lunch and $16.90 for dinner, it’s half as much as its competitors. And the alcohol policy is BYOB. Admittedly, the spread at Villa’s isn’t as extensive as the other guys’. The salad bar has fewer options, and the variety of skewered meats isn’t as broad. But this can be viewed as an advantage because, if you’ve been to a churrascaria, you know there is always way too much food. At Villa’s, it’s less about excess and gluttony, and more about getting to try a churrascaria experience at a reasonable price.

Choices of meat on skewers included bacon-wrapped chicken, chicken leg, sausage, lamb, an especially flavorful garlic beef and the classic churrascaria specialty, beef picanha, a tender, flavorful cut of meat that’s part of the top sirloin and considered to be the top of the line in Brazil.

An unexpected offering at Villa’s were the skewers of grilled pineapple, which may not charm those who are rabid for meat but were a pleasing change of pace, especially given their irresistible cinnamon-sugar crust.

As is the custom at churrascarias, men circulate the dining room carrying skewers and knives; you indicate what you want and they carve it to order. Want more? You just ask the server.

Villa’s salad bar compensated for its few items with their preparation; rice, fat potato fries and beans exhibiting a homemade, personal quality.

In addition, Villa’s has Portuguese dishes not offered elsewhere, including bacalhau — cod baked with parsley and spices or with cream. Just be sure to call ahead to make sure they’ll have it.