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Deliciously retro
Relaxed vibe carries Cliff Cafe to greater heights
Special to the Star-Telegram
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Stepping into the groovy Cliff Cafe feels something like entering a scene from a snappy 1950s TV drama. Crisp and sexy, this new darling of the Dallas dining scene represents everything that's so likable again about Oak Cliff.
But this renovated coffee shop, attached to the wildly chic Belmont Hotel, serves good grub, too.
Popping in for an early weeknight supper, we found the place packed by 7 p.m.. As soon as we sat down, our amiable server was at the ready to take our cocktail order.
As we sipped a lemon meringue martini ($11), made with vodka, limoncello and crowned with a fluff of nonsweet meringue, and a glass of Trapiche pinot noir from Argentina ($7), we gave into our cravings and ordered a plate of cheese fries ($5) for an appetizer.
Mounded high on a plate and covered in a mess of melted Cheddar, these were simply too soggy with grease to enjoy. Better was the updated wedge ($5 for a half, $7 for whole), a plate graced with romaine hearts piled with crisp bacon pieces, chopped red onion, blue cheese crumbles and a thick, fragrant balsamic vinaigrette.
Vegetarian chili ($4) was not for the timid palate. With black, pinto, kidney, red, navy and various other beans, this dense concoction would be just the ticket on a cold day, especially with little cornbread muffins from the bread basket.
Main dishes allow chefs Douglas Brown (he owns Amuse on South Lamar) and Stephen DeSandro a chance to flex some muscles; there are curry lentil cakes and pan-seared salmon with herbed butter; Italian meatloaf and baked penne.
I found perfect balance in the mango-glazed pork shanks ($15). Zapped with Asian chile with a faint buffering from sesame seeds, the tender pork fell easily from the bone with just a nudge. Grilled sweet potatoes and long, crisp green beans were suitable accompaniments.
I broke my own rule about chicken-fried steak -- don't order it where mixed drinks are served -- because the homey vibe seemed so good. The steak itself ($16) was tender, but the crust was thick and a little tough, and the deeply flavorful bacon gravy simply overwhelmed.
That said, the side of mac and cheese, made with Cheddar, Gruyere and fresh basil, was sublime. It's offered as an entree ($11), and that's what I'm ordering as soon as I return.
Cliff Cafe
901 Fort Worth Ave., inside the Belmont Hotel
Dallas
214-393-4141;
Hours: Breakfast, 6-11 a.m. Monday-Friday. Lunch, 11 a.m.- 5 p.m. Monday-Friday. Dinner, 5-9 p.m. Sunday, 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Brunch, 6 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturday-Sunday.
Cuisine: Fancy home-cooking
Essentials: Major credit cards; full bar; smoke-free; wheelchair-accessible.
Entree cost: $11-$20
Signature dishes: Mac and cheese, pork shanks
